From Tuesday (June 2) to Thursday (June 4), we've been in Cesky Krumlov! It's this beautiful town in the Czech Republic, around four hours away from Prague. Unfortunately, I was severely allergic to the town, but it was definitely a good trip. We had our last goodbye dinner. Many people were tearful, and we hugged Vera & Michael & Pavlina (professors) goodbye. They have been excellent professors.
Trip is almost over. One more full day, then we leave.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Nothing new
Haven't done much new stuff in Prague... we kinda ran out of new things to do. Hence the lack of posts lately.
We are going to the Prague food festival tomorrow, though! Assuming I finish my papers.
Cesky Krumlov on Tuesday - Thursday, and we are going white water rafting. Then home on Saturday. Almost done.
We are going to the Prague food festival tomorrow, though! Assuming I finish my papers.
Cesky Krumlov on Tuesday - Thursday, and we are going white water rafting. Then home on Saturday. Almost done.
Saturday, May 16, 2009
PICTURES
Since I'm too lazy to upload individual pictures to entries (maybe I will later), I'll just post my facebook albums here.
Prague, Czech Republic:
#1
#2
#3
Budapest, Hungary:
#1
#2
Karlstejn Castle & Terezin, Czech Republic (Day Trips with the Family):
#1
Southern Bohemia, Czech Republic (Bike Trip):
#1
Berlin, Germany:
#1
#2
#3
#4
Berlin, Germany - Graffiti/Art Scene:
#1
#2
Dresden, Germany
#1
Haha, I just realized this blog is still in U.S. time, so it looks like I post things in the morning. I don't. We're nine hours ahead (of the west coast) here.
Prague, Czech Republic:
#1
#2
#3
Budapest, Hungary:
#1
#2
Karlstejn Castle & Terezin, Czech Republic (Day Trips with the Family):
#1
Southern Bohemia, Czech Republic (Bike Trip):
#1
Berlin, Germany:
#1
#2
#3
#4
Berlin, Germany - Graffiti/Art Scene:
#1
#2
Dresden, Germany
#1
Haha, I just realized this blog is still in U.S. time, so it looks like I post things in the morning. I don't. We're nine hours ahead (of the west coast) here.
Berlin - A Recap
Left for Berlin on a chartered bus at 8am Monday morning. Internet there cost me 1.5 euro/hour so I chose not to post. I'll try to remember what we did. I'll backdate these entries.
Also, thoughts on Germany:
I really liked it there (except for the fact that I was extremely allergic. One zyrtec + one benadryl a day did not seem to have any effect, unfortunately). I like the German sense of humor: very dry and not always obvious. Often sarcastic. Reminds me a bit of Czech humor. I think I've always had a bit of an aversion to Germany because of its Nazi past. I've never had any desire to visit before this. It's strange. But now that I've been there, I would be really interested in spending more time there. Anyway.
Also, thoughts on Germany:
I really liked it there (except for the fact that I was extremely allergic. One zyrtec + one benadryl a day did not seem to have any effect, unfortunately). I like the German sense of humor: very dry and not always obvious. Often sarcastic. Reminds me a bit of Czech humor. I think I've always had a bit of an aversion to Germany because of its Nazi past. I've never had any desire to visit before this. It's strange. But now that I've been there, I would be really interested in spending more time there. Anyway.
Friday, May 15, 2009
Dresden & VW
Just returned from Berlin! Internet was 1.5 euro/hour there so I chose to wait until I returned to Prague to post. Actually, for now I'm going to post about Dresden, though, which is where we were today (on the way back).
First we went to a VW manufacturing plant where they make the Phaeton, a luxury car. I guess I'm not that interested in cars, and honestly it was a little sickening to me. So much awesome technology and so much care and effort put into these... cars. Seemed like a huge waste of time to me. I mean, I appreciate that Vera and Michael set this up and gave us the opportunity to take the tour (which apparently is something a lot of people like to do), but it wasn't my thing at all.
I enjoyed walking around Dresden much more than the tour. It is a beautiful city. It was very strange, though. I mean, before this, all I knew was that Dresden was in Germany, and it was heavily, heavily bombed by the Americans during WWII. How do I know this? Through Slaughterhouse Five (Kurt Vonnegut). It's kinda sickening that I didn't know anything about it prior to reading the short story. No one here seemed to know about the bombings. Telling of the American education I suppose. These were not minor bombings. This was massive devastation. The entire city was bombed out and rebuilt. I felt guilty being there, being an American. I felt guilty for the lack of knowledge our group had about the city and its past and the bombings, felt guilty enjoying Dresden. But I did enjoy it. It has since been rebuilt completely. That was strange to me to... that there were no visible remnants of that past. Everything was intact, grandiose, beautiful.
Anyway, we walked through a beautiful marketplace. I saw a lot of jewelry that Zoe would love, but I already bought her some presents and I was out of Euro. Ah well.
Back in Prague now.
First we went to a VW manufacturing plant where they make the Phaeton, a luxury car. I guess I'm not that interested in cars, and honestly it was a little sickening to me. So much awesome technology and so much care and effort put into these... cars. Seemed like a huge waste of time to me. I mean, I appreciate that Vera and Michael set this up and gave us the opportunity to take the tour (which apparently is something a lot of people like to do), but it wasn't my thing at all.
I enjoyed walking around Dresden much more than the tour. It is a beautiful city. It was very strange, though. I mean, before this, all I knew was that Dresden was in Germany, and it was heavily, heavily bombed by the Americans during WWII. How do I know this? Through Slaughterhouse Five (Kurt Vonnegut). It's kinda sickening that I didn't know anything about it prior to reading the short story. No one here seemed to know about the bombings. Telling of the American education I suppose. These were not minor bombings. This was massive devastation. The entire city was bombed out and rebuilt. I felt guilty being there, being an American. I felt guilty for the lack of knowledge our group had about the city and its past and the bombings, felt guilty enjoying Dresden. But I did enjoy it. It has since been rebuilt completely. That was strange to me to... that there were no visible remnants of that past. Everything was intact, grandiose, beautiful.
Anyway, we walked through a beautiful marketplace. I saw a lot of jewelry that Zoe would love, but I already bought her some presents and I was out of Euro. Ah well.
Back in Prague now.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Felt suit... not art.
Unfortunately, our concentration camp visit was cancelled because the only English speaking guide was sick, and Vera didn't quite speak enough German to translate. I'm still impressed that she speaks some German along with her Czech, English, and Slovak. Anyway, instead we went to a modern art museum which contained Warhol pieces. Unfortunately, the permanent exhibition was closed and instead all we could see was a terrible temporary exhibition. Terrible. Terrible! Can I emphasize this more? I wrote in my journal there:
This museum is already SO ridiculous and this voice commentary is NOT helping matters! Ty Huynh and I are very unsuccessfully trying not to laugh aloud. =) I feel like someone just BSed their way through art (neon lights, felt suit). How does this voice-over person manage not to laugh? "I'm a transmitter and I broadcast." - Beuyc, crazy artist. One hour of artistic propaganda and Ty Huynh believes! HAH. For me? Hell no! Crap is still crap no matter how long you stare at it.
That about sums it up. The felt suit was exactly that. A suit... made of felt. The commentary was so funny we listened to it three times. The person discussed how it was a suit like one you would wear except it wasn't hemmed, and it was made of felt which was to show that we are all isolated at some point because felt is a fabric which keeps in heat so it's like being kept in your little bubble of warmth, etc. Then they went on talking about Ibis and Egyptian goddesses and such. The neon light exhibit was... a bunch of neon lights. That the artist just found somewhere and put on the wall. It was art because of "the way the light was placed and the feeling it gave to the room." Um. Eight green neon lights on the inside wall and eight blue neon lights on the outside wall DOES NOT CONSTITUTE ART! Okay, so I did just argue in my six-page art essay that anything can be considered art. But if nothing else, this is not GOOD art. That I will stand by.
The gift shop was nearly redemptive enough. Should have just spent my time there. Spent like half an hour looking through a book of graffiti. SO cool! Then saw books of outfits, probably mostly from girls in Harajuku. Looked at a book of tattoos. So awesome!
Anyway. That was that. Then we went on a three hour boat cruise. Was random but relaxing at least.
JJ, Ty Huynh and I walked around before getting to the restaurant. We went into the former-school-turned-art-hangout. SO awesome. Graffiti everywhere. Cool graffiti. Cobras and such! I love love love graffiti! It made me really happy. I bought a print (and saw the actual painting, pretty awesome) and a pair of earrings. =) Also entered into some sort of art encampment, with painted vans and lots of people dressed like hippies. Looking happy. Huge pieces of metallic artwork and an outdoor bar. Awesome. Took over 100 pictures of the two places in total.
Went to get Singapore-style food with JJ & Ty Huynh. It was happy hour. They got drinks. I made JJ laugh while he was taking a sip of his mixed drink, and the alcohol went up his nose and came back out. Apparently it burns... haha. It was quite amusing. Ty Huynh chased her stronger mixed drink with her weaker mixed drink. Oh dear.
This museum is already SO ridiculous and this voice commentary is NOT helping matters! Ty Huynh and I are very unsuccessfully trying not to laugh aloud. =) I feel like someone just BSed their way through art (neon lights, felt suit). How does this voice-over person manage not to laugh? "I'm a transmitter and I broadcast." - Beuyc, crazy artist. One hour of artistic propaganda and Ty Huynh believes! HAH. For me? Hell no! Crap is still crap no matter how long you stare at it.
That about sums it up. The felt suit was exactly that. A suit... made of felt. The commentary was so funny we listened to it three times. The person discussed how it was a suit like one you would wear except it wasn't hemmed, and it was made of felt which was to show that we are all isolated at some point because felt is a fabric which keeps in heat so it's like being kept in your little bubble of warmth, etc. Then they went on talking about Ibis and Egyptian goddesses and such. The neon light exhibit was... a bunch of neon lights. That the artist just found somewhere and put on the wall. It was art because of "the way the light was placed and the feeling it gave to the room." Um. Eight green neon lights on the inside wall and eight blue neon lights on the outside wall DOES NOT CONSTITUTE ART! Okay, so I did just argue in my six-page art essay that anything can be considered art. But if nothing else, this is not GOOD art. That I will stand by.
The gift shop was nearly redemptive enough. Should have just spent my time there. Spent like half an hour looking through a book of graffiti. SO cool! Then saw books of outfits, probably mostly from girls in Harajuku. Looked at a book of tattoos. So awesome!
Anyway. That was that. Then we went on a three hour boat cruise. Was random but relaxing at least.
JJ, Ty Huynh and I walked around before getting to the restaurant. We went into the former-school-turned-art-hangout. SO awesome. Graffiti everywhere. Cool graffiti. Cobras and such! I love love love graffiti! It made me really happy. I bought a print (and saw the actual painting, pretty awesome) and a pair of earrings. =) Also entered into some sort of art encampment, with painted vans and lots of people dressed like hippies. Looking happy. Huge pieces of metallic artwork and an outdoor bar. Awesome. Took over 100 pictures of the two places in total.
Went to get Singapore-style food with JJ & Ty Huynh. It was happy hour. They got drinks. I made JJ laugh while he was taking a sip of his mixed drink, and the alcohol went up his nose and came back out. Apparently it burns... haha. It was quite amusing. Ty Huynh chased her stronger mixed drink with her weaker mixed drink. Oh dear.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Jewish Quarter in Berlin
Hour-long walk through the neighborhood. We were in the former Jewish quarter. Saw a Berlin synagogue which was oddly built/designed by a Christian architect. Interestingly, Otto von Bismarck (possibly Germany's greatest leader) attended the inauguration. It was rescued during Kristallnacht despite everything else around it being destroyed, by a police captain who claimed the building as a national landmark, thus granting it protection under the law. For his courageous act, he was released from the police force, but the building does stand today.
We saw the site of a Jewish school. We thought the barrier in front of the building was for construction but turns out it was an anti-terrorism measure. The first female rabbi ever was educated there.
Walked through a park and saw a memorial entitled "The Room that was Left Behind." It was a metallic sculpture of an upright table with chairs in disarray (one having fallen down). It was to commemorate the expulsion of the German Jews from Berlin, and the memorial had a poem around the edges. The piece was about interruption.
We came across the Jewish cemetery in Berlin, which unfortunately is no longer intact. The Nazis used the gravestones to reinforce gutters so almost the entire graveyard was essentially destroyed, except for a few gravestones, one being that of Moses Mendelssohn, founder of the Berlin Enlightenment (and a Jew). Outside, there was a memorial to the female victims of Fascism, with no reference to the fact that it was placed in front of a Jewish cemetery. Strange.
Ty Huynh and I tried pho for dinner. It did not qualify as pho.
We saw the site of a Jewish school. We thought the barrier in front of the building was for construction but turns out it was an anti-terrorism measure. The first female rabbi ever was educated there.
Walked through a park and saw a memorial entitled "The Room that was Left Behind." It was a metallic sculpture of an upright table with chairs in disarray (one having fallen down). It was to commemorate the expulsion of the German Jews from Berlin, and the memorial had a poem around the edges. The piece was about interruption.
We came across the Jewish cemetery in Berlin, which unfortunately is no longer intact. The Nazis used the gravestones to reinforce gutters so almost the entire graveyard was essentially destroyed, except for a few gravestones, one being that of Moses Mendelssohn, founder of the Berlin Enlightenment (and a Jew). Outside, there was a memorial to the female victims of Fascism, with no reference to the fact that it was placed in front of a Jewish cemetery. Strange.
Ty Huynh and I tried pho for dinner. It did not qualify as pho.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Mmm mango lassi ice cream!
Took a walk to the DDR museum (not like the video game but like GDR). Again, another cool, interactive museum. There was a closet where everyone could pick old school clothing to try on, and an old car you could ride in. There were drawers and cabinets to open all over the place with exhibits inside, and headphones to listen to.
Afterward, Ty Huynh and I went to get ice cream. Mango lassi ice cream: SO, SO delicious!
Later that day was a long bus tour. Saw the Berlin wall & extension of the Berlin wall memorial. Saw another Pieta (there are so many) inside a Pantheon-esque building (well, with the hole in the ceiling).
There was a memorial in one of the big squares. One was to memorialize the book-burning event where many young Germans, mostly Nazi affiliated, collected and mass-burnt Jewish books. Nearby, a plaque reads (in German): "Where books burn, people will burn also." A post-book-burning, pre-Holocaust quote. Eerie.
Saw the Olympic stadium in Berlin. Quite impressive. Passed by Potsdamer Plats, formerly the site of Hitler's headquarters. Now it is a gigantic shopping area. Controversy ensues.
We ended at the German Parliamentary building. It was impressive, to say the least. We had the best tour guide. I must say that I very much enjoy the German sense of humor. Beautiful building, lots of pictures. The rooftop dome was amazing. Cool mirror structure. The dome is open at the top. The guide left us before we reached the dome, but he did pre-empt our questions. "People like to ask if the dome is open at the top. The answer is yes. Then people always ask what happens if it rains. The answer is, we get wet."
And yes, we went to the thai place again for lunch AND dinner that day. Heh. Well I did. Ty Huynh and JJ each accompanied me for 2/3 of the times...
Afterward, Ty Huynh and I went to get ice cream. Mango lassi ice cream: SO, SO delicious!
Later that day was a long bus tour. Saw the Berlin wall & extension of the Berlin wall memorial. Saw another Pieta (there are so many) inside a Pantheon-esque building (well, with the hole in the ceiling).
There was a memorial in one of the big squares. One was to memorialize the book-burning event where many young Germans, mostly Nazi affiliated, collected and mass-burnt Jewish books. Nearby, a plaque reads (in German): "Where books burn, people will burn also." A post-book-burning, pre-Holocaust quote. Eerie.
Saw the Olympic stadium in Berlin. Quite impressive. Passed by Potsdamer Plats, formerly the site of Hitler's headquarters. Now it is a gigantic shopping area. Controversy ensues.
We ended at the German Parliamentary building. It was impressive, to say the least. We had the best tour guide. I must say that I very much enjoy the German sense of humor. Beautiful building, lots of pictures. The rooftop dome was amazing. Cool mirror structure. The dome is open at the top. The guide left us before we reached the dome, but he did pre-empt our questions. "People like to ask if the dome is open at the top. The answer is yes. Then people always ask what happens if it rains. The answer is, we get wet."
And yes, we went to the thai place again for lunch AND dinner that day. Heh. Well I did. Ty Huynh and JJ each accompanied me for 2/3 of the times...
Monday, May 11, 2009
Hookers
Went to the Story of Berlin museum. It was an awesome, interactive museum. Walked us through the history of the city. My favorite was the pieces of the Berlin wall, which were painted and displayed in one of the exhibits. The museum would have been more fun if I wasn't so tired, but that is my own fault.
Thai restaurant for dinner! Finally, decent asian food. I was quite pleased. Mango milkshake: delicious.
Saw five hookers on the way home from the restaurant. Apparently it's legal here.
Thai restaurant for dinner! Finally, decent asian food. I was quite pleased. Mango milkshake: delicious.
Saw five hookers on the way home from the restaurant. Apparently it's legal here.
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Chill day
Hung out with my friend, James, and his friend, Steve, again today. Was pretty fun- very relaxing. First, James and I went to see the National Museum. They have a massive dead animal collection, which was reminiscent of the Museum of Natural History in DC. I really liked it. Saw some other exhibits as well - prehistory and such. Paleontology was quite boring. The building was absolutely beautiful inside.
We walked around Wenceslas a bit, and went into the Municipal Theatre, but didn't have time to take the tour because he had to pick up his stuff from the hostel. After that we ate, then met up with Steve and went to hang out by the river for awhile. Prague can be a very relaxing city. Beautiful as well. Walked around the Charles Bridge during sunset.
Then we walked to the Florenc (bus/metro stop) where we parted ways. I'm glad James visited- it was nice hanging out with him this weekend. =) And it was cool meeting Steve- seemed like an interesting guy. Steve's girlfriend Therese (I don't know how it's spelled), and their friend Trish also visited, but I didn't talk to them quite as much. Trish wasn't as interested in the museum so we lost her at some point today, and Steve and Therese mostly did their own thing until she left on the bus at 4 today.
So yeah. All in all a good, relaxing day. Now I have to write my papers...
We walked around Wenceslas a bit, and went into the Municipal Theatre, but didn't have time to take the tour because he had to pick up his stuff from the hostel. After that we ate, then met up with Steve and went to hang out by the river for awhile. Prague can be a very relaxing city. Beautiful as well. Walked around the Charles Bridge during sunset.
Then we walked to the Florenc (bus/metro stop) where we parted ways. I'm glad James visited- it was nice hanging out with him this weekend. =) And it was cool meeting Steve- seemed like an interesting guy. Steve's girlfriend Therese (I don't know how it's spelled), and their friend Trish also visited, but I didn't talk to them quite as much. Trish wasn't as interested in the museum so we lost her at some point today, and Steve and Therese mostly did their own thing until she left on the bus at 4 today.
So yeah. All in all a good, relaxing day. Now I have to write my papers...
Saturday, May 9, 2009
National Theatre
We just went to see a ballet called Solo for Three at the National Theatre. It is a beautiful building. I suppose ballets aren't quite my style, but I did find it interesting and I am impressed with the dancers' ability.
I found it quite funny that at the end, the cast came out not once, nor twice... but FIVE times for applause. As in come up and bow several times (in rows or all at once), then run back and let the curtain close. Then have it open again. Five times! Hehe. Ty Huynh and I were honestly just laughing the whole time... like OH NO they're back!
Also, Kate and I went to a bead shop here! =)
James is visiting this weekend! Hung out with him and 3 of his friends who are also visiting for most of yesterday. Was pretty fun. We walked around a lot: Old Town, Wenceslas, Vysehrad, etc. I'm hanging out with him again tomorrow (after I write at least one paper today...) before he leaves to go back to Giessen, Germany!
I found it quite funny that at the end, the cast came out not once, nor twice... but FIVE times for applause. As in come up and bow several times (in rows or all at once), then run back and let the curtain close. Then have it open again. Five times! Hehe. Ty Huynh and I were honestly just laughing the whole time... like OH NO they're back!
Also, Kate and I went to a bead shop here! =)
James is visiting this weekend! Hung out with him and 3 of his friends who are also visiting for most of yesterday. Was pretty fun. We walked around a lot: Old Town, Wenceslas, Vysehrad, etc. I'm hanging out with him again tomorrow (after I write at least one paper today...) before he leaves to go back to Giessen, Germany!
Friday, May 8, 2009
Weird.
Yesterday Ty Huynh and I were sitting in Wenceslas Square eating a sausage from a vendor. A group of five weird guys were blowing into tubes just to make loud noises and laughing like crazy. Suddenly, one of the guys walks toward us and I saw him, but Ty Huynh was facing me and she didn't see him. He sneaks up and then blows the tube right in our faces. Ty Huynh screamed. I just looked at him... and we walked away.
Interesting to see that Seattle isn't the only home for crazy people.
Interesting to see that Seattle isn't the only home for crazy people.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Mucha!
Today we went to see the Mucha (famous, prolific Czech artist) museum for art history class. He is quite impressive, as my parents suggested. I ended up buying a poster because I really liked his work. Good call, family. =)
We also had a guest lecturer come in to talk to us about the Roma. Her name is Gwen, and she is an American who has been here for 15 years trying to help fight anti-Roma discrimination. She is extremely cynical at this point, and rightfully so (in my opinion). It was interesting, but sad to see how much of a failed struggle much of it is so far. Let's just say... slow progress.
My friend James visits on Friday, and we go to Berlin next week, so I think both events will be fun! =)
Today, at the Mucha museum, Ty Huynh bought a book of traditional Czech fairy tales (in English). We decided to read one at dinner (Kate made curry for us three), so we chose "Kate and the Devil" in honor of Kate. It was twisted and depressing! Interesting, I suppose. I am too lazy to recount the story at the moment...
Time to sleep!
We also had a guest lecturer come in to talk to us about the Roma. Her name is Gwen, and she is an American who has been here for 15 years trying to help fight anti-Roma discrimination. She is extremely cynical at this point, and rightfully so (in my opinion). It was interesting, but sad to see how much of a failed struggle much of it is so far. Let's just say... slow progress.
My friend James visits on Friday, and we go to Berlin next week, so I think both events will be fun! =)
Today, at the Mucha museum, Ty Huynh bought a book of traditional Czech fairy tales (in English). We decided to read one at dinner (Kate made curry for us three), so we chose "Kate and the Devil" in honor of Kate. It was twisted and depressing! Interesting, I suppose. I am too lazy to recount the story at the moment...
Time to sleep!
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Bike trip to Southern Bohemia
So I haven't written in a little while, but hey. It happens.
Bike trip to Southern Bohemia was a bit of a bust for me and Kate, not being stellar cyclists. There were a whole host of reasons in addition. Not quite as "easy" a bike trip as promised, lots of gravel/big rocks/puddles, program-rented bike so big that I could barely get on the bike, my bike skills extremely rusty, almost everyone else's not, Kate & I got left behind... so we took two turns praying we were going the right way, HUGE rain/thunder/lightning storm hit (the rain here hurts like hell) midst-bike trip so we had to take shelter for 1/2 hour, all of our stuff inside our backpacks were soaked, including some of my medicines -> mush, soggy papers, and my phone completely drenched (not sure if it works anymore), lunch ended up being really shitty at this place we had to wait 2 hours for food and they ran out of most dishes, big leg bruise, millions of mosquitos, beds at the destination hostel had about a 1-inch thick mattress and no discernible pillow, and I got sick the next day.
On a more positive note, this random dude saw us huddled next to a building hiding from the storm, so he let us sit in chairs on his back porch to wait out the storm. Was really nice of him.
So yeah. The next day Kate and I took the train instead while everyone biked more. So we managed to avoid the area where Ty Huynh ate a mosquito because there were so many swarming, the four-bike pile-up, and the other various crashes from the sandy areas (no one crashed on day one). Instead, we had pretty good luck catching the train to Veseli, then Trebon. We saw Vera (program director) there and she managed to help us drop off the bikes (since the bike place was on lunch break, but of course her speaking Czech helped... she got someone else to store the bikes). Then we had a leisurely day in Trebon, which is a beautiful city. Had a delicious lunch, though I forgot the cardinal rule: never order a side of vegetables in the Czech Republic (you would think I would have learned by now). Vegetable side dish = pickled red cabbage, pickled white cabbage, pickled carrots, one tomato wedge and a slice of cucumber. No joke. Was okay though, the crepe dessert was awesome. Hung out at the main square, where they were having an animated film festival (though I saw no screens in sight), which meant an interesting marketplace. Got a few pieces of inexpensive but pretty jewelry, one for Zoe. Had inexpensive, delicious ice cream, and chilled in the park until it was time to meet the group.
So overall the second day was fairly redemptive.
On a bit of a more startling note, I almost forgot to mention that we witnessed a guy leaving a girl (we think) a few days ago. Of course, it was all in Czech, so we could not be sure, but as we were walking home, a window across the street from our apartment complex was open. There was a girl in her underwear standing almost completely out of the huge, open window screaming at the top of her lungs while crying uncontrollably. She kept waving something and yelling at someone, so we looked down to see a car starting with a guy in it. He completely ignored her and drove off. Once he left, she just sat down and kept talking and crying. It was really sad.
Bike trip to Southern Bohemia was a bit of a bust for me and Kate, not being stellar cyclists. There were a whole host of reasons in addition. Not quite as "easy" a bike trip as promised, lots of gravel/big rocks/puddles, program-rented bike so big that I could barely get on the bike, my bike skills extremely rusty, almost everyone else's not, Kate & I got left behind... so we took two turns praying we were going the right way, HUGE rain/thunder/lightning storm hit (the rain here hurts like hell) midst-bike trip so we had to take shelter for 1/2 hour, all of our stuff inside our backpacks were soaked, including some of my medicines -> mush, soggy papers, and my phone completely drenched (not sure if it works anymore), lunch ended up being really shitty at this place we had to wait 2 hours for food and they ran out of most dishes, big leg bruise, millions of mosquitos, beds at the destination hostel had about a 1-inch thick mattress and no discernible pillow, and I got sick the next day.
On a more positive note, this random dude saw us huddled next to a building hiding from the storm, so he let us sit in chairs on his back porch to wait out the storm. Was really nice of him.
So yeah. The next day Kate and I took the train instead while everyone biked more. So we managed to avoid the area where Ty Huynh ate a mosquito because there were so many swarming, the four-bike pile-up, and the other various crashes from the sandy areas (no one crashed on day one). Instead, we had pretty good luck catching the train to Veseli, then Trebon. We saw Vera (program director) there and she managed to help us drop off the bikes (since the bike place was on lunch break, but of course her speaking Czech helped... she got someone else to store the bikes). Then we had a leisurely day in Trebon, which is a beautiful city. Had a delicious lunch, though I forgot the cardinal rule: never order a side of vegetables in the Czech Republic (you would think I would have learned by now). Vegetable side dish = pickled red cabbage, pickled white cabbage, pickled carrots, one tomato wedge and a slice of cucumber. No joke. Was okay though, the crepe dessert was awesome. Hung out at the main square, where they were having an animated film festival (though I saw no screens in sight), which meant an interesting marketplace. Got a few pieces of inexpensive but pretty jewelry, one for Zoe. Had inexpensive, delicious ice cream, and chilled in the park until it was time to meet the group.
So overall the second day was fairly redemptive.
On a bit of a more startling note, I almost forgot to mention that we witnessed a guy leaving a girl (we think) a few days ago. Of course, it was all in Czech, so we could not be sure, but as we were walking home, a window across the street from our apartment complex was open. There was a girl in her underwear standing almost completely out of the huge, open window screaming at the top of her lungs while crying uncontrollably. She kept waving something and yelling at someone, so we looked down to see a car starting with a guy in it. He completely ignored her and drove off. Once he left, she just sat down and kept talking and crying. It was really sad.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Grog?
On a much lighter note, Corbin and I walked into a dessert place today. We looked at their menu, and they definitely listed "grog." Curious, he asked what that entailed. "Alcohol and cold water," the waiter replied, annoyed.
Really?
Really?
Terezin
Today my family and I went to visit Terezin. It was a Jewish ghetto at first, which was turned into a concentration camp. The first thing we saw was the cemetary, with 10,000 buried there (mostly but not all Jews). 3,000 individual headstones, and 7,000 buried in mass graves in the center.
We saw the cell where Gavrilo Princip was held - he was the Serbian national who shot and killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, the catalyst event for World War I.
What's strange is, Terezin was constructed originally as a military fortress under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, but then shortly after the became allies with the countries they were protecting themselves against (with the fortress), so it was never used for its intended purpose.
We saw the excecution site where many political prisoners were shot by the Nazis in the summer of 1942. There was also a gallow for the hanging of Jews.
The guide showed us the house where the Nazi party's leading families in Terezin stayed, with the swimming pool, SS cinema, and park constructed by camp inhabitants.
We then saw another Jewish cemetary, where 9,000 people who died in the ghettos were buried. Nearby, there was a memorial for the people who died in the extermination/concentration camps, and another cemetary to bury the soldiers who died of typhoid during the emancipation.
The hardest part, for me, by far, was seeing the crematorium. We saw the room where exterminations took place, as well as some autopsies. It was connected to the big room, with four ovens. They were huge, heavy, and built for efficiency.
I'm not sure how much more of this learning I can really handle. Yet how can I say that, when I have not had to live through any of this? My sympathy already weighs so much upon me... I can't even begin to imagine what it would have been like actually living through this era. And to think, Nazism was just the beginning of the terrible times and regimes for Central Europe.
We saw the cell where Gavrilo Princip was held - he was the Serbian national who shot and killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, the catalyst event for World War I.
What's strange is, Terezin was constructed originally as a military fortress under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, but then shortly after the became allies with the countries they were protecting themselves against (with the fortress), so it was never used for its intended purpose.
We saw the excecution site where many political prisoners were shot by the Nazis in the summer of 1942. There was also a gallow for the hanging of Jews.
The guide showed us the house where the Nazi party's leading families in Terezin stayed, with the swimming pool, SS cinema, and park constructed by camp inhabitants.
We then saw another Jewish cemetary, where 9,000 people who died in the ghettos were buried. Nearby, there was a memorial for the people who died in the extermination/concentration camps, and another cemetary to bury the soldiers who died of typhoid during the emancipation.
The hardest part, for me, by far, was seeing the crematorium. We saw the room where exterminations took place, as well as some autopsies. It was connected to the big room, with four ovens. They were huge, heavy, and built for efficiency.
I'm not sure how much more of this learning I can really handle. Yet how can I say that, when I have not had to live through any of this? My sympathy already weighs so much upon me... I can't even begin to imagine what it would have been like actually living through this era. And to think, Nazism was just the beginning of the terrible times and regimes for Central Europe.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Kundera Case
We had a discussion on the Kundera case in history class today. People are so quick to judge without taking an honest look at the context. It makes me sad. I am far too exhausted to delve into detail but perhaps I will at a later point, if anyone cares enough to know.
I judge a lot. But I do at least make attempts to look through other perspectives and put scenarios into context before judging. I wish more people bothered.
I judge a lot. But I do at least make attempts to look through other perspectives and put scenarios into context before judging. I wish more people bothered.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Denunciation of Milan Kundera
Today we had a guest lecturer in History class. Some background first: Milan Kundera is a revered, famous (in CZ) Czech author. He is the author of The Joke, which I mentioned in a previous post. He was a member of the Communist Party, but once he saw the corruption and issues he became known for being the voice against the regime.
Recently (ish), Adam Hradilek discovered a document within the Communist Police archives noting that Kundera informed on Miroslav Dvoracek. As a result, Dvoracek ended up in prison/working at a uranium mine for 22 years. Kundera has denied this outright. A ton of backlash has resulted and debate sparked, since Hradilek and a colleague published the finding in a Czech magazine, Respekt.
Our speaker today was Hradilek. I can't go into detail about what he said since it was in confidence, but it was interesting. I do have to say, though, that it was more interesting to hear about his other work in interviewing survivors of the Holocaust/Communism and trying to speak with representatives from every possible demographic.
I also thought it was interesting that many people see The Joke as a book he wrote out of guilt- an atonement of sorts. In it, the main character (Ludvik) is sent to work in the mines after being informed on by a girl he loved and then later denounced by a friend.
This article sums up my take on the issue, though I am hardly qualified to be in any kind of serious debate.
Recently (ish), Adam Hradilek discovered a document within the Communist Police archives noting that Kundera informed on Miroslav Dvoracek. As a result, Dvoracek ended up in prison/working at a uranium mine for 22 years. Kundera has denied this outright. A ton of backlash has resulted and debate sparked, since Hradilek and a colleague published the finding in a Czech magazine, Respekt.
Our speaker today was Hradilek. I can't go into detail about what he said since it was in confidence, but it was interesting. I do have to say, though, that it was more interesting to hear about his other work in interviewing survivors of the Holocaust/Communism and trying to speak with representatives from every possible demographic.
I also thought it was interesting that many people see The Joke as a book he wrote out of guilt- an atonement of sorts. In it, the main character (Ludvik) is sent to work in the mines after being informed on by a girl he loved and then later denounced by a friend.
This article sums up my take on the issue, though I am hardly qualified to be in any kind of serious debate.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
A short post and excuses. =)
So much happening... it's hard to find time to record everything. Saw the Jewish Quarter today, with my family (who is visiting Prague). I thought the wall of names - every Czech Jew who died in the Holocaust - was especially powerful.
I visited Karlstejn Castle with the family on Sunday as well. It does look like a classic Disney castle. I am pleased to say I recognized some of the saints we discussed in class, due to the symbols included in their portraits (wheel and sword for Saint Catherine).
I am sure I could expand in further detail but I slept very little last night due to the poli sci paper due this morning, and I have to write my art paper for tomorrow. I'll try to remember to update more. I'm positive there were things I reminded myself to post that I've already forgotten by now...
I visited Karlstejn Castle with the family on Sunday as well. It does look like a classic Disney castle. I am pleased to say I recognized some of the saints we discussed in class, due to the symbols included in their portraits (wheel and sword for Saint Catherine).
I am sure I could expand in further detail but I slept very little last night due to the poli sci paper due this morning, and I have to write my art paper for tomorrow. I'll try to remember to update more. I'm positive there were things I reminded myself to post that I've already forgotten by now...
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Genocide, Nazism, and Communism. Another cheery entry.
The sadness surrounding the program's content is getting difficult to handle. Ten weeks of learning about the Holocaust and Communist terror.
Today we began at a modern art museum. I did not connect with most of it, but I did really enjoy two exhibits. One was an entire wall (all white) with various pieces (all rectangular but of different dimensions) featuring vastly different subjects and created using different types of media. I plan to do something similar at some point... when I buy a house. However, it was still nothing compared to my favorite exhibit, entitled "Miniature United Nations." The piece is incredible. It includes signposts with names of various cities torn apart by war: destruction and genocide. Each signpost stands in front of an area on the ground depicting the aftermath. The buildings are mostly created with cardboard, spray-painted black. There is rubble everywhere- some apparently from the actual sites themselves. It is a massive picture of complete devastation. In addition, the signposts have relevant media attached to them: books, articles, and government documents about each incident, from various countries and in various languages, hanging from the posts. I'll include a link to an article about the exhibit, but the picture in it does not even come close to doing the exhibit justice.
http://www.budapesttimes.hu/content/view/11585/222/
I am seriously considering constructing a very small version of it at home. The materials are not difficult to find or expensive to acquire, and the effect of the piece was enormous. It was so well executed.
The room next to the one containing the mini-UN piece had a piece which was essentially a bunch of different types of cloth tied to a crane. It would periodically rise slowly to toward the ceiling, only to be dropped dramatically to the floor again. It was a very surreal effect, walking through the ruins of the miniature UN exhibit, hearing a gigantic thud in the background every so often.
I got a lot of postcards to use as art. Another one of my decoration plans is to have an entire wall filled with artwork from different cities I've been to. Watercolors and the street artist spray painted piece from Rome, and postcards from various places.
After a delicious lunch (goulash is awesome), we went to the House of Terror, which is the former headquarters for the Nazi and Communist governments in Budapest. It is now a museum. It was certainly eerie. I think the eeriest part (even more so than the torture chamber and prison cells in the basement) was the elevator down to the basement. They have an automatic movie turn on while we are slowly, slowly descending, entrapped in this glass case. The movie is a documentary: an old man describing executions in gruesome, minute detail. Also, there is a huge wall that spans all three floors of the museum, with photographs and names of victims, and a tank sits in front of them, dripping with oil. As we listen to this man describe the executions, I can see the tank slowly come into view from the corner of the glass elevator. He's talking about hanging people while the tank reveals itself. It was a strange effect.
Today we will venture back to the market, if possible. All of us want to try some of the delectable food they offered there (I suppose we don't know for sure since we haven't yet tried it, but there is absolutely no way it isn't delicious). I may also buy a few gifts. We shall see.
Today we began at a modern art museum. I did not connect with most of it, but I did really enjoy two exhibits. One was an entire wall (all white) with various pieces (all rectangular but of different dimensions) featuring vastly different subjects and created using different types of media. I plan to do something similar at some point... when I buy a house. However, it was still nothing compared to my favorite exhibit, entitled "Miniature United Nations." The piece is incredible. It includes signposts with names of various cities torn apart by war: destruction and genocide. Each signpost stands in front of an area on the ground depicting the aftermath. The buildings are mostly created with cardboard, spray-painted black. There is rubble everywhere- some apparently from the actual sites themselves. It is a massive picture of complete devastation. In addition, the signposts have relevant media attached to them: books, articles, and government documents about each incident, from various countries and in various languages, hanging from the posts. I'll include a link to an article about the exhibit, but the picture in it does not even come close to doing the exhibit justice.
http://www.budapesttimes.hu/content/view/11585/222/
I am seriously considering constructing a very small version of it at home. The materials are not difficult to find or expensive to acquire, and the effect of the piece was enormous. It was so well executed.
The room next to the one containing the mini-UN piece had a piece which was essentially a bunch of different types of cloth tied to a crane. It would periodically rise slowly to toward the ceiling, only to be dropped dramatically to the floor again. It was a very surreal effect, walking through the ruins of the miniature UN exhibit, hearing a gigantic thud in the background every so often.
I got a lot of postcards to use as art. Another one of my decoration plans is to have an entire wall filled with artwork from different cities I've been to. Watercolors and the street artist spray painted piece from Rome, and postcards from various places.
After a delicious lunch (goulash is awesome), we went to the House of Terror, which is the former headquarters for the Nazi and Communist governments in Budapest. It is now a museum. It was certainly eerie. I think the eeriest part (even more so than the torture chamber and prison cells in the basement) was the elevator down to the basement. They have an automatic movie turn on while we are slowly, slowly descending, entrapped in this glass case. The movie is a documentary: an old man describing executions in gruesome, minute detail. Also, there is a huge wall that spans all three floors of the museum, with photographs and names of victims, and a tank sits in front of them, dripping with oil. As we listen to this man describe the executions, I can see the tank slowly come into view from the corner of the glass elevator. He's talking about hanging people while the tank reveals itself. It was a strange effect.
Today we will venture back to the market, if possible. All of us want to try some of the delectable food they offered there (I suppose we don't know for sure since we haven't yet tried it, but there is absolutely no way it isn't delicious). I may also buy a few gifts. We shall see.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Budapest Graffiti
I love graffiti (as Mindy found out in Rome... we spent 3 hours one day photographing graffiti under a bridge). There have some AWESOME graffiti here in Budapest, but unfortunately a lot of it is in the tunnel along the tram line, so I can't photograph it safely. I am considering just riding the tram back and forth and trying to capture some of the graffiti... too weird?
The Joke and Under a Cruel Star
By the way, I read Milan Kundera's The Joke on the bus ride from Prague to Budapest. It is an incredible book, and also a very sad one. The way it is written from various perspectives is quite impressive, and the way the stories twist together to eventually coalesce is even more so. I would say it is surprisingly tragic.
The other book we've read for our history class is Heda Margolius Kovály's Under a Cruel Star. I had read it before, but I read it again, and I love it even more than I did before. It is an autobiography of a Jewish woman who lived in Prague during the Nazi regime, survived the concentration camps (and escaped), and then joined the Communist Party. Her husband became a prominent party member and he was eventually executed in the purge "show" trials (fake trials set up to "purge traitors from within the party" - all false accusations and false pretenses of course). Kovály is such an incredible woman. She is one of the few people I really admire. Vera (professor) told us she saw Kovály on the metro in Prague once.
They are both on my list of all-time favorite books, and I have read a lot of books. If you haven't already, I would highly, highly recommend reading both.
I am definitely borrowing The Unbearable Lightness of Being (also Kundera) from Matthew when I get home.
The other book we've read for our history class is Heda Margolius Kovály's Under a Cruel Star. I had read it before, but I read it again, and I love it even more than I did before. It is an autobiography of a Jewish woman who lived in Prague during the Nazi regime, survived the concentration camps (and escaped), and then joined the Communist Party. Her husband became a prominent party member and he was eventually executed in the purge "show" trials (fake trials set up to "purge traitors from within the party" - all false accusations and false pretenses of course). Kovály is such an incredible woman. She is one of the few people I really admire. Vera (professor) told us she saw Kovály on the metro in Prague once.
They are both on my list of all-time favorite books, and I have read a lot of books. If you haven't already, I would highly, highly recommend reading both.
I am definitely borrowing The Unbearable Lightness of Being (also Kundera) from Matthew when I get home.
No Confidence Votes & The Holocaust in Hungary. A bit of a history/poli sci lesson.
I am thoroughly enjoying Budapest!
Today we went to visit the Parliament. I feel like we have such strange, and I almost hesitate to say "good" timing (because we happen to be here during fairly important, if not good times) here. We arrive in the Czech Republic during an interesting time, the previous government having been given a vote of no confidence in the week prior to our arrival... thus, the CZ has no real government right now (though the previous government is still effectively in power). Today, we happen to visit the Budapest Parliament on the day when the current Hungarian government is about to be given a vote of no confidence. In addition, there was a protest that began right around when we got there, because Hungary operates under a "constructive vote of no confidence" system which means that when the current government is voted out, a new leader must be recommended as a placement immediately so that the country is never without a leader. The protest was against the new leader being voted in because he has expressed part of his "reform plans," including cutting pensions and halting salaries for government workers for two years (according to the prof... I am not sure how that works exactly). Maybe he means raises... anyway, people are pissed.
Also, it was funny that the Hungarian Parliamentary building is such a beautiful building, but they actually only use the left half of it (it is HUGE). Apparently, they built it during the time when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it was built, intended for the bicameral body for the empire... but Hungary alone has only a unicameral legislative body.
One Hungarian woman walking by happened to hear part of Michael (professor) telling us about the reasons for the protest and some of the history/events (including corruption and cover-ups). At the end of his lecture, she commented, referring to the Hungarian government: "Too much lying every time... every time!" She was quite passionate.
It's strange being in a place where history is still happening. Yes, of course it's always happening, but big events. No confidence votes in governmental bodies. Failed reforms. The kinds of things we learn about in history. They're not finished here. The Berlin wall didn't come down until 1989. My professor, Vera Sokolova, took part in the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Even more incredible was our discussion with Pavlina, our art history professor. She pointed out the guards surrounding Parliament. Of course, we all thought this was quite normal... national guard or some such. But she told us that most likely, they were members of a faction- part of a party rather than working for Hungary itself. She was certainly afraid of them- something that would not have occurred to me had she not mentioned it.
We talked about the Hungarian Guards, a group that has expressed neo-Nazi tendencies. Anti-Semitism is growing in Hungary, as the party is gaining popularity. We learned more about this during the visit to the synagogue. The guide told us that much of Hungary still denies the Holocaust- it is not included in the history books. The persecution of the Jews is outright denied in many cases. Class trips to the concentration camps are not required (up to the teacher's discretion), unlike in Germany and Poland. Jews are still blamed for much of the economic issues that have arisen in recent times (all over the world, of course). It's terrible and frightening.
The synagogue we visited was once ironically known as "the most beautiful Catholic synagogue in the world" due to the Christian influence on the architecture and structure of the synagogue... this was out of respect for the Christians in the region. However, some refused to attend for this reason and thus began their own faction. How strange the splitting of religion into smaller and more specific factions can be. Especially considering a reason like this...
Anyway, we learned about the Holocaust's effect on Hungary. We saw the Jewish ghetto during WWII. We saw a tree sculpture created as a memorial to the Jews who died. Each leaf has a name of a Jew who died in the concentration camps engraved on its surface. It was incredible and so tragic. We saw the cemetery where 2,200 Jews were buried during 1944 & 1945... Jews who died in the ghetto because of the terrible living conditions. The guide told us that usually, living and dead are separated distinctly, so a cemetery would never be built next to a synagogue, but they had no choice because the ghetto was centered around the synagogue (easier than transporting them away since most were already in the area) and they could not leave. Thus, only Jews who died in 1944 to 1945 were buried there. We saw a memorial in which little holes were placed under the names of Jews who died. The holes were for offerings- they were filled with stones. Again, separation of living and dead. A living offering does not belong in a grave (ex: flowers), but stones were perfect offerings because they were not alive and they were eternal.
We went to a basilica as well, but it didn't have nearly the same impression as the synagogue. Instead, Colin and I mostly talked about how wasteful and hypocritical the Catholic Church was. The view from the cupola (quite a climb) was impressive, though, as it always is.
I suppose I should post some pictures sometime, but I don't have today's because my camera ran out of batteries, so I used Colin's to take pictures. I will try to get them from him.
On a lighter note, we went to one of the bathhouses today. It was relaxing, but I have to admit that it was also boring. I suppose I just wasn't meant to sit around and soak for hours on end.
I really enjoy Hungary!
The one place I really want to see this trip is Auschwitz. I think a group of us will organize to do one weekend in Krakow & Auschwitz. I think it will mean a lot to me, and it might be the first time I cry in public. I have gotten close many times, usually when we study the Holocaust and see documentaries or go to certain sites. I have learned a LOT about the Holocaust before, but it is so much more immediate here. We are in places where these things actually happened. Not just the Holocaust, but other historical events as well. The protests in Wenceslas Square, where we pass every day on our way to school. Old Town Square, where the Easter celebrations were. It seems strange that these same places of such massive historical importance can just continue in their daily lives as huge tourist spots, where prices are jacked up and souvenirs are abundant. It almost seems wrong.
I told some of my dinner companions today that my reason for wanting to visit Krakow is this book I read when I was very young, entitled Trumpeter of Krakow (I believe). The book had an effect on me and I really wanted to visit the tower and see the trumpeter, so I've always wanted to go to Krakow. I thought it was a silly reason but Pavlina thought it was a very good reason. I suppose it's as good as any.
Last night I went to a club. It was pretty cool, though we were all exhausted (many of us running on two hours of sleep or less the previous night). Had fun though. One incident did break out after I left, however. One of my group members, Tim, heard someone make a blatantly derogatory comment about Jews in his hearing. Tim challenged the guy and a fight almost broke out, but my classmates brought Tim home. Unfortunately, it seems that this anti-Semitism (as I discussed earlier) still has a presence in Hungary... in the form of two political parties.
Long entry. It is a bit disjointed but I am too tired to organize it further!
Added later: Also, we visited a market that looked like it has DELICIOUS food. We are going soon for sure! Also, we saw the Central European University here. It sounds pretty cool, but I'm not looking into grad school...
Today we went to visit the Parliament. I feel like we have such strange, and I almost hesitate to say "good" timing (because we happen to be here during fairly important, if not good times) here. We arrive in the Czech Republic during an interesting time, the previous government having been given a vote of no confidence in the week prior to our arrival... thus, the CZ has no real government right now (though the previous government is still effectively in power). Today, we happen to visit the Budapest Parliament on the day when the current Hungarian government is about to be given a vote of no confidence. In addition, there was a protest that began right around when we got there, because Hungary operates under a "constructive vote of no confidence" system which means that when the current government is voted out, a new leader must be recommended as a placement immediately so that the country is never without a leader. The protest was against the new leader being voted in because he has expressed part of his "reform plans," including cutting pensions and halting salaries for government workers for two years (according to the prof... I am not sure how that works exactly). Maybe he means raises... anyway, people are pissed.
Also, it was funny that the Hungarian Parliamentary building is such a beautiful building, but they actually only use the left half of it (it is HUGE). Apparently, they built it during the time when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it was built, intended for the bicameral body for the empire... but Hungary alone has only a unicameral legislative body.
One Hungarian woman walking by happened to hear part of Michael (professor) telling us about the reasons for the protest and some of the history/events (including corruption and cover-ups). At the end of his lecture, she commented, referring to the Hungarian government: "Too much lying every time... every time!" She was quite passionate.
It's strange being in a place where history is still happening. Yes, of course it's always happening, but big events. No confidence votes in governmental bodies. Failed reforms. The kinds of things we learn about in history. They're not finished here. The Berlin wall didn't come down until 1989. My professor, Vera Sokolova, took part in the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Even more incredible was our discussion with Pavlina, our art history professor. She pointed out the guards surrounding Parliament. Of course, we all thought this was quite normal... national guard or some such. But she told us that most likely, they were members of a faction- part of a party rather than working for Hungary itself. She was certainly afraid of them- something that would not have occurred to me had she not mentioned it.
We talked about the Hungarian Guards, a group that has expressed neo-Nazi tendencies. Anti-Semitism is growing in Hungary, as the party is gaining popularity. We learned more about this during the visit to the synagogue. The guide told us that much of Hungary still denies the Holocaust- it is not included in the history books. The persecution of the Jews is outright denied in many cases. Class trips to the concentration camps are not required (up to the teacher's discretion), unlike in Germany and Poland. Jews are still blamed for much of the economic issues that have arisen in recent times (all over the world, of course). It's terrible and frightening.
The synagogue we visited was once ironically known as "the most beautiful Catholic synagogue in the world" due to the Christian influence on the architecture and structure of the synagogue... this was out of respect for the Christians in the region. However, some refused to attend for this reason and thus began their own faction. How strange the splitting of religion into smaller and more specific factions can be. Especially considering a reason like this...
Anyway, we learned about the Holocaust's effect on Hungary. We saw the Jewish ghetto during WWII. We saw a tree sculpture created as a memorial to the Jews who died. Each leaf has a name of a Jew who died in the concentration camps engraved on its surface. It was incredible and so tragic. We saw the cemetery where 2,200 Jews were buried during 1944 & 1945... Jews who died in the ghetto because of the terrible living conditions. The guide told us that usually, living and dead are separated distinctly, so a cemetery would never be built next to a synagogue, but they had no choice because the ghetto was centered around the synagogue (easier than transporting them away since most were already in the area) and they could not leave. Thus, only Jews who died in 1944 to 1945 were buried there. We saw a memorial in which little holes were placed under the names of Jews who died. The holes were for offerings- they were filled with stones. Again, separation of living and dead. A living offering does not belong in a grave (ex: flowers), but stones were perfect offerings because they were not alive and they were eternal.
We went to a basilica as well, but it didn't have nearly the same impression as the synagogue. Instead, Colin and I mostly talked about how wasteful and hypocritical the Catholic Church was. The view from the cupola (quite a climb) was impressive, though, as it always is.
I suppose I should post some pictures sometime, but I don't have today's because my camera ran out of batteries, so I used Colin's to take pictures. I will try to get them from him.
On a lighter note, we went to one of the bathhouses today. It was relaxing, but I have to admit that it was also boring. I suppose I just wasn't meant to sit around and soak for hours on end.
I really enjoy Hungary!
The one place I really want to see this trip is Auschwitz. I think a group of us will organize to do one weekend in Krakow & Auschwitz. I think it will mean a lot to me, and it might be the first time I cry in public. I have gotten close many times, usually when we study the Holocaust and see documentaries or go to certain sites. I have learned a LOT about the Holocaust before, but it is so much more immediate here. We are in places where these things actually happened. Not just the Holocaust, but other historical events as well. The protests in Wenceslas Square, where we pass every day on our way to school. Old Town Square, where the Easter celebrations were. It seems strange that these same places of such massive historical importance can just continue in their daily lives as huge tourist spots, where prices are jacked up and souvenirs are abundant. It almost seems wrong.
I told some of my dinner companions today that my reason for wanting to visit Krakow is this book I read when I was very young, entitled Trumpeter of Krakow (I believe). The book had an effect on me and I really wanted to visit the tower and see the trumpeter, so I've always wanted to go to Krakow. I thought it was a silly reason but Pavlina thought it was a very good reason. I suppose it's as good as any.
Last night I went to a club. It was pretty cool, though we were all exhausted (many of us running on two hours of sleep or less the previous night). Had fun though. One incident did break out after I left, however. One of my group members, Tim, heard someone make a blatantly derogatory comment about Jews in his hearing. Tim challenged the guy and a fight almost broke out, but my classmates brought Tim home. Unfortunately, it seems that this anti-Semitism (as I discussed earlier) still has a presence in Hungary... in the form of two political parties.
Long entry. It is a bit disjointed but I am too tired to organize it further!
Added later: Also, we visited a market that looked like it has DELICIOUS food. We are going soon for sure! Also, we saw the Central European University here. It sounds pretty cool, but I'm not looking into grad school...
Monday, April 13, 2009
Budapest, Hungary!
I guess the title of this blog is a lie at the moment since I'm in Budapest!
I am writing so I don't pass out while we wait for people to get ready to go out tonight. I just might go... but I have to be awake to make that choice! 2 hours of sleep + leaving the house at 5:45am + 7 hour bus ride = very sleepy! But I like Budapest so far!
I definitely did not know that the name Budapest is derived from Buda and Pest, which are the names of the two parts of the city (across the river from one another). They were combined to form Budapest. I thought it was funny. =)
I ate the biggest meal ever! Crazy restaurant we went to today. Gigantic dishes... but I still managed to find room for dessert, of course. =)
Things here are even more inexpensive than they were in Prague... it's pretty ridiculous. Lunch for under $3 is pretty sweet.
This week should be fun. Tomorrow we go to the bathhouse. Should be an interesting experience I think.
Saw the castle today. Got several beautiful views of the city. I like it so far!
I am writing so I don't pass out while we wait for people to get ready to go out tonight. I just might go... but I have to be awake to make that choice! 2 hours of sleep + leaving the house at 5:45am + 7 hour bus ride = very sleepy! But I like Budapest so far!
I definitely did not know that the name Budapest is derived from Buda and Pest, which are the names of the two parts of the city (across the river from one another). They were combined to form Budapest. I thought it was funny. =)
I ate the biggest meal ever! Crazy restaurant we went to today. Gigantic dishes... but I still managed to find room for dessert, of course. =)
Things here are even more inexpensive than they were in Prague... it's pretty ridiculous. Lunch for under $3 is pretty sweet.
This week should be fun. Tomorrow we go to the bathhouse. Should be an interesting experience I think.
Saw the castle today. Got several beautiful views of the city. I like it so far!
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Easter Sunday in Prague
It's funny trying to make soup when you can't read the directions because they're in Czech! It ended up alright though. =)
Today was beautiful. It's sunny here and it's Easter Sunday, which is a fairly big celebration, so we walked around Old Town Square. Of course, I forgot my camera but I assure you it was beautiful. I like how they decorate the trees! Also, we actually heard a Czech band giving a free concert in the Square, which is awesome because we've pretty much only heard American music since we've arrived. I didn't understand a word but I still loved it.
I bought a sheep cookie. It's awesome.
And yes I know a lot of posts are about food... but it's an important part of my life! =) Plus I think that's one thing I really like about exploring new cultures: the food.
Tomorrow we leave for Budapest. All we know is that we're going to a bathhouse at some point. Should be fun I suppose.
Also, we got internet set up in our apartment! Right now we only have one cord to share, but it's still very nice. No more paying 20 crowns per half hour! It was only the equivalent of $40 for all three of us for two months. Pretty cool.
Today was beautiful. It's sunny here and it's Easter Sunday, which is a fairly big celebration, so we walked around Old Town Square. Of course, I forgot my camera but I assure you it was beautiful. I like how they decorate the trees! Also, we actually heard a Czech band giving a free concert in the Square, which is awesome because we've pretty much only heard American music since we've arrived. I didn't understand a word but I still loved it.
I bought a sheep cookie. It's awesome.
And yes I know a lot of posts are about food... but it's an important part of my life! =) Plus I think that's one thing I really like about exploring new cultures: the food.
Tomorrow we leave for Budapest. All we know is that we're going to a bathhouse at some point. Should be fun I suppose.
Also, we got internet set up in our apartment! Right now we only have one cord to share, but it's still very nice. No more paying 20 crowns per half hour! It was only the equivalent of $40 for all three of us for two months. Pretty cool.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Meat and Potatoes
It amuses me how obsessive they are about meat here. I think I like meat more now because they cook it so well! So, meat & potatoes... rediscovered love.
I draw the line at the steak, bacon, and salami chips though. Especially because they look like the meat items they are named after... which means that in chip form, they basically look like dog treats.
Yummy...
I love the soup here! And the pastries! Mmmm....
I draw the line at the steak, bacon, and salami chips though. Especially because they look like the meat items they are named after... which means that in chip form, they basically look like dog treats.
Yummy...
I love the soup here! And the pastries! Mmmm....
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Džus!
I think it's funny that the word for "juice" in Czech is "džus". It's actually pronounced exactly the same way. Incredible how different the spelling is, though.
Ty Huynh and I are at the same cafe again, Cafe Illusion. We like it best despite its semi-unreliable internet. However, the funniest thing is that this guy is hitting on the waitress. They are sitting down together and teaching each other different languages (he's teaching her English & she's teaching him Czech). It has been amusing to see how this progressed from him sitting at the bar asking her how to basically hit on girls in Czech and her giving him skeptical replies... to this.
Ty Huynh and I are at the same cafe again, Cafe Illusion. We like it best despite its semi-unreliable internet. However, the funniest thing is that this guy is hitting on the waitress. They are sitting down together and teaching each other different languages (he's teaching her English & she's teaching him Czech). It has been amusing to see how this progressed from him sitting at the bar asking her how to basically hit on girls in Czech and her giving him skeptical replies... to this.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Pirate Prague
I like how one of the main greetings here is "Ahoj" (pronounced like "ahoy" in English)! It makes everyone seem like a pirate! It's fun. =)
I'm at Cafe Illusion again and this time I ordered the ice chocolate. It is delicious.
I really have nothing of substance to say right now except that Prague makes me happy!
I'm at Cafe Illusion again and this time I ordered the ice chocolate. It is delicious.
I really have nothing of substance to say right now except that Prague makes me happy!
Monday, April 6, 2009
Obama, Hannah, Easter Eggs, and Pastries!
It is week two and I'm feeling much better about Prague. =)
Hannah visited this weekend! We did all sorts of touristy things and travelled more around Prague. It was fun!
I got six of the hand-painted eggs they sell here for the Easter celebration. Some of them have incredible cutouts... it's a real eggshell with the egg contents drained. They are pretty. =) I should take pictures of them.
Saw Obama speak on Sunday! Waking up at 4:50am was not fun... but it was worth it (though we probably could have woken up a bit later). He is quite an eloquent speaker. It was funny hearing all these references to events we are learning about in my classes right now in his speech. Prague Spring, the legacy of the Cold War, the Velvet Revolution, and the idea of Czechoslovakia (as it was still one country at the time) having its fate decided for it without the voice of the Czech/Slovak people heard. It definitely added credibility and piqued my interest in his speech even more than it might have. It was also strange seeing snipers placed in several of the windows of buildings surrounding Prague castle and all of the other security guards.
I have already done so much reading ahead of time that it is ridiculous. I finish my readings and I feel like I should be doing more. I suppose such is the result of a hyper-intensive quarter where avoiding readings for a day or two is simply not an option. Now I feel like I need to be doing a lot more than I am doing... I feel like I must have more work to do because I have forgotten what it's like to only be taking 15 credits (3 classes) in one quarter.
Perhaps that is a contributing factor to my decision to pay for and attend Czech language classes. I realize that it will be impossible to learn the language- not even to the point where I will be able to speak conversational Czech. Still, I want to be able to pronounce things here. I want to be able to say just a few words, to make some effort. It is part of the experience I want to have here. How can you ever hope to understand a culture without even making an attempt at understanding the language? They are so integrally tied. So... I am learning a little bit of Czech. It is not really about usefulness to me... it is about really committing- making a real attempt to understand Prague. I am learning its social history and present, its political history and present. I may as well make a more complete effort.
I feel much more comfortable with the city now, in part thanks to my wanderings around the city with Hannah! I may have no idea where I am, but point the way to a 4 or 22 tram or any metro stop and I can find my way home! The transportation system here is excellent, as I mentioned before.
I love the content of Vera's class (history). I also enjoy Mike's class (political science), but I think I am more interested in discussions of history, generally, than discussions of political science. So far, the art history/architecture class is reminiscent of Rome since we are simply discussing basics of architecture styles, etc. It is nice to be walking around the city though. Anyhow, I am devouring the readings because they are incredible.
I suppose it is somewhat ironic that it is only in my senior year of college that I discover how much I enjoy some classes. I love learning about English and history. I wonder if I will miss that when I graduate... what a strange concept. I have never thought I would miss school, being resentful of the majority of my schooling. I finally feel like I'm appreciating some of it. I absolutely loved my English classes last quarter. English and history are my true passions, though I am much better at English than history since I have trouble remembering dates and names and other facts. I like to look at forces which shape events and see how different groups interact with one another. History is about studying people- a large part of it is looking at psychology of people and sociology - their interactions.
As a class, we went to the Institute for Totalitarian Regime today, which is essentially a way for the government to educate people about Totalitarian Regime. It also holds the archives for the documents kept in the Czech Republic under the Nazi and Communist regimes. They have chosen to open it up to the public (for the most part), despite much debate. It may close in September with the new elections, depending on the outcome of the elections. I like that they opened it to the public. It is a way to show that they are no longer covering up events in the past the way both of the regimes did both during and after events occurred.
Today, after class, Ty-Huynh and I (who live in the same apartment complex but not the same apartment unit) got stuck trying to exit our apartment building. The door is pretty worn out (understatement), but at least it usually opens after several tries. This time, it decided to be really stuck. We actually asked someone on the street outside to help open it (it opens a little bit but not all the way) and that was amusing. Perhaps it helped though, because even though he gave up and left, it was soon after that I thought it would be helpful to try slipping through the doorway. Of course, then it decided to open... Anyway. I've never been stuck inside a building for 30 minutes before.
Anyway, after we finally escaped, we went in search of an internet cafe (I love the people at the laundromat we usually go to for internet, but we were hungry and the laundromat closes at 8pm). After many failed attempts (too loud, no internet, too smoky, closes too early, or several of the above), we found this one! It has couches, quiet (not obnoxious) music, and it is clean and pretty. I like the internet cafes here. I talked to Zoe online and she told me that she misses internet cafes. We have quite a few in Seattle but she tells me there is a dearth of internet cafes in California (somewhere between San Diego and LA), where she lives now. If I do end up moving elsewhere in a year or two, I wonder what I will miss about Seattle or the Northwest in general. Much more than I can imagine, I am sure.
So I am at the cafe and Ty-Huynh and I just received the desserts we ordered. Pastries in general are delicious here. =) I may not be the biggest fan of meat, bread, and potatoes, but pastries I can get on board with!
I think now that I will miss Prague when I leave. I know that is in nine weeks, but I can tell I will already.
I am happy today. =)
Hannah visited this weekend! We did all sorts of touristy things and travelled more around Prague. It was fun!
I got six of the hand-painted eggs they sell here for the Easter celebration. Some of them have incredible cutouts... it's a real eggshell with the egg contents drained. They are pretty. =) I should take pictures of them.
Saw Obama speak on Sunday! Waking up at 4:50am was not fun... but it was worth it (though we probably could have woken up a bit later). He is quite an eloquent speaker. It was funny hearing all these references to events we are learning about in my classes right now in his speech. Prague Spring, the legacy of the Cold War, the Velvet Revolution, and the idea of Czechoslovakia (as it was still one country at the time) having its fate decided for it without the voice of the Czech/Slovak people heard. It definitely added credibility and piqued my interest in his speech even more than it might have. It was also strange seeing snipers placed in several of the windows of buildings surrounding Prague castle and all of the other security guards.
I have already done so much reading ahead of time that it is ridiculous. I finish my readings and I feel like I should be doing more. I suppose such is the result of a hyper-intensive quarter where avoiding readings for a day or two is simply not an option. Now I feel like I need to be doing a lot more than I am doing... I feel like I must have more work to do because I have forgotten what it's like to only be taking 15 credits (3 classes) in one quarter.
Perhaps that is a contributing factor to my decision to pay for and attend Czech language classes. I realize that it will be impossible to learn the language- not even to the point where I will be able to speak conversational Czech. Still, I want to be able to pronounce things here. I want to be able to say just a few words, to make some effort. It is part of the experience I want to have here. How can you ever hope to understand a culture without even making an attempt at understanding the language? They are so integrally tied. So... I am learning a little bit of Czech. It is not really about usefulness to me... it is about really committing- making a real attempt to understand Prague. I am learning its social history and present, its political history and present. I may as well make a more complete effort.
I feel much more comfortable with the city now, in part thanks to my wanderings around the city with Hannah! I may have no idea where I am, but point the way to a 4 or 22 tram or any metro stop and I can find my way home! The transportation system here is excellent, as I mentioned before.
I love the content of Vera's class (history). I also enjoy Mike's class (political science), but I think I am more interested in discussions of history, generally, than discussions of political science. So far, the art history/architecture class is reminiscent of Rome since we are simply discussing basics of architecture styles, etc. It is nice to be walking around the city though. Anyhow, I am devouring the readings because they are incredible.
I suppose it is somewhat ironic that it is only in my senior year of college that I discover how much I enjoy some classes. I love learning about English and history. I wonder if I will miss that when I graduate... what a strange concept. I have never thought I would miss school, being resentful of the majority of my schooling. I finally feel like I'm appreciating some of it. I absolutely loved my English classes last quarter. English and history are my true passions, though I am much better at English than history since I have trouble remembering dates and names and other facts. I like to look at forces which shape events and see how different groups interact with one another. History is about studying people- a large part of it is looking at psychology of people and sociology - their interactions.
As a class, we went to the Institute for Totalitarian Regime today, which is essentially a way for the government to educate people about Totalitarian Regime. It also holds the archives for the documents kept in the Czech Republic under the Nazi and Communist regimes. They have chosen to open it up to the public (for the most part), despite much debate. It may close in September with the new elections, depending on the outcome of the elections. I like that they opened it to the public. It is a way to show that they are no longer covering up events in the past the way both of the regimes did both during and after events occurred.
Today, after class, Ty-Huynh and I (who live in the same apartment complex but not the same apartment unit) got stuck trying to exit our apartment building. The door is pretty worn out (understatement), but at least it usually opens after several tries. This time, it decided to be really stuck. We actually asked someone on the street outside to help open it (it opens a little bit but not all the way) and that was amusing. Perhaps it helped though, because even though he gave up and left, it was soon after that I thought it would be helpful to try slipping through the doorway. Of course, then it decided to open... Anyway. I've never been stuck inside a building for 30 minutes before.
Anyway, after we finally escaped, we went in search of an internet cafe (I love the people at the laundromat we usually go to for internet, but we were hungry and the laundromat closes at 8pm). After many failed attempts (too loud, no internet, too smoky, closes too early, or several of the above), we found this one! It has couches, quiet (not obnoxious) music, and it is clean and pretty. I like the internet cafes here. I talked to Zoe online and she told me that she misses internet cafes. We have quite a few in Seattle but she tells me there is a dearth of internet cafes in California (somewhere between San Diego and LA), where she lives now. If I do end up moving elsewhere in a year or two, I wonder what I will miss about Seattle or the Northwest in general. Much more than I can imagine, I am sure.
So I am at the cafe and Ty-Huynh and I just received the desserts we ordered. Pastries in general are delicious here. =) I may not be the biggest fan of meat, bread, and potatoes, but pastries I can get on board with!
I think now that I will miss Prague when I leave. I know that is in nine weeks, but I can tell I will already.
I am happy today. =)
Friday, April 3, 2009
Excerpt: Bits of Prague
I haven't been great about updating, but I attribute this partly to my difficulty in logging into this blog. I finally figured out how to connect my gmail to this blog so I can now post it without logging out of my e-mail. Yay! Expect more updates, perhaps.
Here is something I did write about Prague a few days ago:
I do really like Prague, although I think I'm affected by Rome syndrome, which is to say that nothing is exceptionally impressive anymore. It is pretty and interesting, though, from what I've seen so far (not much). I really want to see the dancing building. There are a lot of things I like about here. I like all of the natives I have met and conversed with so far, and I like that they have four different types of recycling bins on the street for every garbage can. It makes me happy. I like that their public transportation system is easy to figure out and I like that the city looks very unplanned – just layers of different architecture styles built across various centuries without regard for how the whole city fits. It’s fun. It’s eclectic. I like that you can purchase frozen frog legs at the local supermarket (though I don't plan on doing so), that the 24/7 stores are labeled "NONSTOP" and that groceries are incredibly cheap. I like that I don't understand the language - I am going to be taking courses soon though. I like that I am slowly learning the area (too slowly maybe but still).
I will post today's separately so I can backdate this!
Here is something I did write about Prague a few days ago:
I do really like Prague, although I think I'm affected by Rome syndrome, which is to say that nothing is exceptionally impressive anymore. It is pretty and interesting, though, from what I've seen so far (not much). I really want to see the dancing building. There are a lot of things I like about here. I like all of the natives I have met and conversed with so far, and I like that they have four different types of recycling bins on the street for every garbage can. It makes me happy. I like that their public transportation system is easy to figure out and I like that the city looks very unplanned – just layers of different architecture styles built across various centuries without regard for how the whole city fits. It’s fun. It’s eclectic. I like that you can purchase frozen frog legs at the local supermarket (though I don't plan on doing so), that the 24/7 stores are labeled "NONSTOP" and that groceries are incredibly cheap. I like that I don't understand the language - I am going to be taking courses soon though. I like that I am slowly learning the area (too slowly maybe but still).
I will post today's separately so I can backdate this!
Monday, January 26, 2009
To Prague!
March 28, 2009. A little over two months from today. That is the day I arrive in Prague!
If any of you were hopeful readers of my last blog in Rome (the summer before last), I am sure I disappointed you by posting almost nothing in my blog until the last week of the program. This time I will try not to disappoint!
Studying in Prague will be like reading a new author in a favored genre - I know the title, I have seen the cover images and I have read the raving reviews on the back cover posted by adoring readers and pragmatic reviewers, but I know nothing about the voice I am about to encounter. I feel that rush of excitement that comes with unveiling a mystery, like meeting an interesting stranger that you know has so much to offer- but that the unveiling can only come with time as it is far too vast for us to comprehend in one sitting. Thankfully, I have been blessed with ten weeks (a fortune compared to my six weeks in Rome) in which to meet Prague. I am positive that by the end of my stay, ten weeks will seem unimaginably short just as my stay in Rome passed as quickly as experiences turn into memories. Once again, I will be waving goodbye to a group of (hopefully) beloved friends as we return to the country where our bodies, if not our hearts, reside.
To Prague!
If any of you were hopeful readers of my last blog in Rome (the summer before last), I am sure I disappointed you by posting almost nothing in my blog until the last week of the program. This time I will try not to disappoint!
Studying in Prague will be like reading a new author in a favored genre - I know the title, I have seen the cover images and I have read the raving reviews on the back cover posted by adoring readers and pragmatic reviewers, but I know nothing about the voice I am about to encounter. I feel that rush of excitement that comes with unveiling a mystery, like meeting an interesting stranger that you know has so much to offer- but that the unveiling can only come with time as it is far too vast for us to comprehend in one sitting. Thankfully, I have been blessed with ten weeks (a fortune compared to my six weeks in Rome) in which to meet Prague. I am positive that by the end of my stay, ten weeks will seem unimaginably short just as my stay in Rome passed as quickly as experiences turn into memories. Once again, I will be waving goodbye to a group of (hopefully) beloved friends as we return to the country where our bodies, if not our hearts, reside.
To Prague!
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