I am thoroughly enjoying Budapest!
Today we went to visit the Parliament. I feel like we have such strange, and I almost hesitate to say "good" timing (because we happen to be here during fairly important, if not good times) here. We arrive in the Czech Republic during an interesting time, the previous government having been given a vote of no confidence in the week prior to our arrival... thus, the CZ has no real government right now (though the previous government is still effectively in power). Today, we happen to visit the Budapest Parliament on the day when the current Hungarian government is about to be given a vote of no confidence. In addition, there was a protest that began right around when we got there, because Hungary operates under a "constructive vote of no confidence" system which means that when the current government is voted out, a new leader must be recommended as a placement immediately so that the country is never without a leader. The protest was against the new leader being voted in because he has expressed part of his "reform plans," including cutting pensions and halting salaries for government workers for two years (according to the prof... I am not sure how that works exactly). Maybe he means raises... anyway, people are pissed.
Also, it was funny that the Hungarian Parliamentary building is such a beautiful building, but they actually only use the left half of it (it is HUGE). Apparently, they built it during the time when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it was built, intended for the bicameral body for the empire... but Hungary alone has only a unicameral legislative body.
One Hungarian woman walking by happened to hear part of Michael (professor) telling us about the reasons for the protest and some of the history/events (including corruption and cover-ups). At the end of his lecture, she commented, referring to the Hungarian government: "Too much lying every time... every time!" She was quite passionate.
It's strange being in a place where history is still happening. Yes, of course it's always happening, but big events. No confidence votes in governmental bodies. Failed reforms. The kinds of things we learn about in history. They're not finished here. The Berlin wall didn't come down until 1989. My professor, Vera Sokolova, took part in the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Even more incredible was our discussion with Pavlina, our art history professor. She pointed out the guards surrounding Parliament. Of course, we all thought this was quite normal... national guard or some such. But she told us that most likely, they were members of a faction- part of a party rather than working for Hungary itself. She was certainly afraid of them- something that would not have occurred to me had she not mentioned it.
We talked about the Hungarian Guards, a group that has expressed neo-Nazi tendencies. Anti-Semitism is growing in Hungary, as the party is gaining popularity. We learned more about this during the visit to the synagogue. The guide told us that much of Hungary still denies the Holocaust- it is not included in the history books. The persecution of the Jews is outright denied in many cases. Class trips to the concentration camps are not required (up to the teacher's discretion), unlike in Germany and Poland. Jews are still blamed for much of the economic issues that have arisen in recent times (all over the world, of course). It's terrible and frightening.
The synagogue we visited was once ironically known as "the most beautiful Catholic synagogue in the world" due to the Christian influence on the architecture and structure of the synagogue... this was out of respect for the Christians in the region. However, some refused to attend for this reason and thus began their own faction. How strange the splitting of religion into smaller and more specific factions can be. Especially considering a reason like this...
Anyway, we learned about the Holocaust's effect on Hungary. We saw the Jewish ghetto during WWII. We saw a tree sculpture created as a memorial to the Jews who died. Each leaf has a name of a Jew who died in the concentration camps engraved on its surface. It was incredible and so tragic. We saw the cemetery where 2,200 Jews were buried during 1944 & 1945... Jews who died in the ghetto because of the terrible living conditions. The guide told us that usually, living and dead are separated distinctly, so a cemetery would never be built next to a synagogue, but they had no choice because the ghetto was centered around the synagogue (easier than transporting them away since most were already in the area) and they could not leave. Thus, only Jews who died in 1944 to 1945 were buried there. We saw a memorial in which little holes were placed under the names of Jews who died. The holes were for offerings- they were filled with stones. Again, separation of living and dead. A living offering does not belong in a grave (ex: flowers), but stones were perfect offerings because they were not alive and they were eternal.
We went to a basilica as well, but it didn't have nearly the same impression as the synagogue. Instead, Colin and I mostly talked about how wasteful and hypocritical the Catholic Church was. The view from the cupola (quite a climb) was impressive, though, as it always is.
I suppose I should post some pictures sometime, but I don't have today's because my camera ran out of batteries, so I used Colin's to take pictures. I will try to get them from him.
On a lighter note, we went to one of the bathhouses today. It was relaxing, but I have to admit that it was also boring. I suppose I just wasn't meant to sit around and soak for hours on end.
I really enjoy Hungary!
The one place I really want to see this trip is Auschwitz. I think a group of us will organize to do one weekend in Krakow & Auschwitz. I think it will mean a lot to me, and it might be the first time I cry in public. I have gotten close many times, usually when we study the Holocaust and see documentaries or go to certain sites. I have learned a LOT about the Holocaust before, but it is so much more immediate here. We are in places where these things actually happened. Not just the Holocaust, but other historical events as well. The protests in Wenceslas Square, where we pass every day on our way to school. Old Town Square, where the Easter celebrations were. It seems strange that these same places of such massive historical importance can just continue in their daily lives as huge tourist spots, where prices are jacked up and souvenirs are abundant. It almost seems wrong.
I told some of my dinner companions today that my reason for wanting to visit Krakow is this book I read when I was very young, entitled Trumpeter of Krakow (I believe). The book had an effect on me and I really wanted to visit the tower and see the trumpeter, so I've always wanted to go to Krakow. I thought it was a silly reason but Pavlina thought it was a very good reason. I suppose it's as good as any.
Last night I went to a club. It was pretty cool, though we were all exhausted (many of us running on two hours of sleep or less the previous night). Had fun though. One incident did break out after I left, however. One of my group members, Tim, heard someone make a blatantly derogatory comment about Jews in his hearing. Tim challenged the guy and a fight almost broke out, but my classmates brought Tim home. Unfortunately, it seems that this anti-Semitism (as I discussed earlier) still has a presence in Hungary... in the form of two political parties.
Long entry. It is a bit disjointed but I am too tired to organize it further!
Added later: Also, we visited a market that looked like it has DELICIOUS food. We are going soon for sure! Also, we saw the Central European University here. It sounds pretty cool, but I'm not looking into grad school...
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