On a much lighter note, Corbin and I walked into a dessert place today. We looked at their menu, and they definitely listed "grog." Curious, he asked what that entailed. "Alcohol and cold water," the waiter replied, annoyed.
Really?
Friday, April 24, 2009
Terezin
Today my family and I went to visit Terezin. It was a Jewish ghetto at first, which was turned into a concentration camp. The first thing we saw was the cemetary, with 10,000 buried there (mostly but not all Jews). 3,000 individual headstones, and 7,000 buried in mass graves in the center.
We saw the cell where Gavrilo Princip was held - he was the Serbian national who shot and killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, the catalyst event for World War I.
What's strange is, Terezin was constructed originally as a military fortress under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, but then shortly after the became allies with the countries they were protecting themselves against (with the fortress), so it was never used for its intended purpose.
We saw the excecution site where many political prisoners were shot by the Nazis in the summer of 1942. There was also a gallow for the hanging of Jews.
The guide showed us the house where the Nazi party's leading families in Terezin stayed, with the swimming pool, SS cinema, and park constructed by camp inhabitants.
We then saw another Jewish cemetary, where 9,000 people who died in the ghettos were buried. Nearby, there was a memorial for the people who died in the extermination/concentration camps, and another cemetary to bury the soldiers who died of typhoid during the emancipation.
The hardest part, for me, by far, was seeing the crematorium. We saw the room where exterminations took place, as well as some autopsies. It was connected to the big room, with four ovens. They were huge, heavy, and built for efficiency.
I'm not sure how much more of this learning I can really handle. Yet how can I say that, when I have not had to live through any of this? My sympathy already weighs so much upon me... I can't even begin to imagine what it would have been like actually living through this era. And to think, Nazism was just the beginning of the terrible times and regimes for Central Europe.
We saw the cell where Gavrilo Princip was held - he was the Serbian national who shot and killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, the catalyst event for World War I.
What's strange is, Terezin was constructed originally as a military fortress under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, but then shortly after the became allies with the countries they were protecting themselves against (with the fortress), so it was never used for its intended purpose.
We saw the excecution site where many political prisoners were shot by the Nazis in the summer of 1942. There was also a gallow for the hanging of Jews.
The guide showed us the house where the Nazi party's leading families in Terezin stayed, with the swimming pool, SS cinema, and park constructed by camp inhabitants.
We then saw another Jewish cemetary, where 9,000 people who died in the ghettos were buried. Nearby, there was a memorial for the people who died in the extermination/concentration camps, and another cemetary to bury the soldiers who died of typhoid during the emancipation.
The hardest part, for me, by far, was seeing the crematorium. We saw the room where exterminations took place, as well as some autopsies. It was connected to the big room, with four ovens. They were huge, heavy, and built for efficiency.
I'm not sure how much more of this learning I can really handle. Yet how can I say that, when I have not had to live through any of this? My sympathy already weighs so much upon me... I can't even begin to imagine what it would have been like actually living through this era. And to think, Nazism was just the beginning of the terrible times and regimes for Central Europe.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Kundera Case
We had a discussion on the Kundera case in history class today. People are so quick to judge without taking an honest look at the context. It makes me sad. I am far too exhausted to delve into detail but perhaps I will at a later point, if anyone cares enough to know.
I judge a lot. But I do at least make attempts to look through other perspectives and put scenarios into context before judging. I wish more people bothered.
I judge a lot. But I do at least make attempts to look through other perspectives and put scenarios into context before judging. I wish more people bothered.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Denunciation of Milan Kundera
Today we had a guest lecturer in History class. Some background first: Milan Kundera is a revered, famous (in CZ) Czech author. He is the author of The Joke, which I mentioned in a previous post. He was a member of the Communist Party, but once he saw the corruption and issues he became known for being the voice against the regime.
Recently (ish), Adam Hradilek discovered a document within the Communist Police archives noting that Kundera informed on Miroslav Dvoracek. As a result, Dvoracek ended up in prison/working at a uranium mine for 22 years. Kundera has denied this outright. A ton of backlash has resulted and debate sparked, since Hradilek and a colleague published the finding in a Czech magazine, Respekt.
Our speaker today was Hradilek. I can't go into detail about what he said since it was in confidence, but it was interesting. I do have to say, though, that it was more interesting to hear about his other work in interviewing survivors of the Holocaust/Communism and trying to speak with representatives from every possible demographic.
I also thought it was interesting that many people see The Joke as a book he wrote out of guilt- an atonement of sorts. In it, the main character (Ludvik) is sent to work in the mines after being informed on by a girl he loved and then later denounced by a friend.
This article sums up my take on the issue, though I am hardly qualified to be in any kind of serious debate.
Recently (ish), Adam Hradilek discovered a document within the Communist Police archives noting that Kundera informed on Miroslav Dvoracek. As a result, Dvoracek ended up in prison/working at a uranium mine for 22 years. Kundera has denied this outright. A ton of backlash has resulted and debate sparked, since Hradilek and a colleague published the finding in a Czech magazine, Respekt.
Our speaker today was Hradilek. I can't go into detail about what he said since it was in confidence, but it was interesting. I do have to say, though, that it was more interesting to hear about his other work in interviewing survivors of the Holocaust/Communism and trying to speak with representatives from every possible demographic.
I also thought it was interesting that many people see The Joke as a book he wrote out of guilt- an atonement of sorts. In it, the main character (Ludvik) is sent to work in the mines after being informed on by a girl he loved and then later denounced by a friend.
This article sums up my take on the issue, though I am hardly qualified to be in any kind of serious debate.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
A short post and excuses. =)
So much happening... it's hard to find time to record everything. Saw the Jewish Quarter today, with my family (who is visiting Prague). I thought the wall of names - every Czech Jew who died in the Holocaust - was especially powerful.
I visited Karlstejn Castle with the family on Sunday as well. It does look like a classic Disney castle. I am pleased to say I recognized some of the saints we discussed in class, due to the symbols included in their portraits (wheel and sword for Saint Catherine).
I am sure I could expand in further detail but I slept very little last night due to the poli sci paper due this morning, and I have to write my art paper for tomorrow. I'll try to remember to update more. I'm positive there were things I reminded myself to post that I've already forgotten by now...
I visited Karlstejn Castle with the family on Sunday as well. It does look like a classic Disney castle. I am pleased to say I recognized some of the saints we discussed in class, due to the symbols included in their portraits (wheel and sword for Saint Catherine).
I am sure I could expand in further detail but I slept very little last night due to the poli sci paper due this morning, and I have to write my art paper for tomorrow. I'll try to remember to update more. I'm positive there were things I reminded myself to post that I've already forgotten by now...
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Genocide, Nazism, and Communism. Another cheery entry.
The sadness surrounding the program's content is getting difficult to handle. Ten weeks of learning about the Holocaust and Communist terror.
Today we began at a modern art museum. I did not connect with most of it, but I did really enjoy two exhibits. One was an entire wall (all white) with various pieces (all rectangular but of different dimensions) featuring vastly different subjects and created using different types of media. I plan to do something similar at some point... when I buy a house. However, it was still nothing compared to my favorite exhibit, entitled "Miniature United Nations." The piece is incredible. It includes signposts with names of various cities torn apart by war: destruction and genocide. Each signpost stands in front of an area on the ground depicting the aftermath. The buildings are mostly created with cardboard, spray-painted black. There is rubble everywhere- some apparently from the actual sites themselves. It is a massive picture of complete devastation. In addition, the signposts have relevant media attached to them: books, articles, and government documents about each incident, from various countries and in various languages, hanging from the posts. I'll include a link to an article about the exhibit, but the picture in it does not even come close to doing the exhibit justice.
http://www.budapesttimes.hu/content/view/11585/222/
I am seriously considering constructing a very small version of it at home. The materials are not difficult to find or expensive to acquire, and the effect of the piece was enormous. It was so well executed.
The room next to the one containing the mini-UN piece had a piece which was essentially a bunch of different types of cloth tied to a crane. It would periodically rise slowly to toward the ceiling, only to be dropped dramatically to the floor again. It was a very surreal effect, walking through the ruins of the miniature UN exhibit, hearing a gigantic thud in the background every so often.
I got a lot of postcards to use as art. Another one of my decoration plans is to have an entire wall filled with artwork from different cities I've been to. Watercolors and the street artist spray painted piece from Rome, and postcards from various places.
After a delicious lunch (goulash is awesome), we went to the House of Terror, which is the former headquarters for the Nazi and Communist governments in Budapest. It is now a museum. It was certainly eerie. I think the eeriest part (even more so than the torture chamber and prison cells in the basement) was the elevator down to the basement. They have an automatic movie turn on while we are slowly, slowly descending, entrapped in this glass case. The movie is a documentary: an old man describing executions in gruesome, minute detail. Also, there is a huge wall that spans all three floors of the museum, with photographs and names of victims, and a tank sits in front of them, dripping with oil. As we listen to this man describe the executions, I can see the tank slowly come into view from the corner of the glass elevator. He's talking about hanging people while the tank reveals itself. It was a strange effect.
Today we will venture back to the market, if possible. All of us want to try some of the delectable food they offered there (I suppose we don't know for sure since we haven't yet tried it, but there is absolutely no way it isn't delicious). I may also buy a few gifts. We shall see.
Today we began at a modern art museum. I did not connect with most of it, but I did really enjoy two exhibits. One was an entire wall (all white) with various pieces (all rectangular but of different dimensions) featuring vastly different subjects and created using different types of media. I plan to do something similar at some point... when I buy a house. However, it was still nothing compared to my favorite exhibit, entitled "Miniature United Nations." The piece is incredible. It includes signposts with names of various cities torn apart by war: destruction and genocide. Each signpost stands in front of an area on the ground depicting the aftermath. The buildings are mostly created with cardboard, spray-painted black. There is rubble everywhere- some apparently from the actual sites themselves. It is a massive picture of complete devastation. In addition, the signposts have relevant media attached to them: books, articles, and government documents about each incident, from various countries and in various languages, hanging from the posts. I'll include a link to an article about the exhibit, but the picture in it does not even come close to doing the exhibit justice.
http://www.budapesttimes.hu/content/view/11585/222/
I am seriously considering constructing a very small version of it at home. The materials are not difficult to find or expensive to acquire, and the effect of the piece was enormous. It was so well executed.
The room next to the one containing the mini-UN piece had a piece which was essentially a bunch of different types of cloth tied to a crane. It would periodically rise slowly to toward the ceiling, only to be dropped dramatically to the floor again. It was a very surreal effect, walking through the ruins of the miniature UN exhibit, hearing a gigantic thud in the background every so often.
I got a lot of postcards to use as art. Another one of my decoration plans is to have an entire wall filled with artwork from different cities I've been to. Watercolors and the street artist spray painted piece from Rome, and postcards from various places.
After a delicious lunch (goulash is awesome), we went to the House of Terror, which is the former headquarters for the Nazi and Communist governments in Budapest. It is now a museum. It was certainly eerie. I think the eeriest part (even more so than the torture chamber and prison cells in the basement) was the elevator down to the basement. They have an automatic movie turn on while we are slowly, slowly descending, entrapped in this glass case. The movie is a documentary: an old man describing executions in gruesome, minute detail. Also, there is a huge wall that spans all three floors of the museum, with photographs and names of victims, and a tank sits in front of them, dripping with oil. As we listen to this man describe the executions, I can see the tank slowly come into view from the corner of the glass elevator. He's talking about hanging people while the tank reveals itself. It was a strange effect.
Today we will venture back to the market, if possible. All of us want to try some of the delectable food they offered there (I suppose we don't know for sure since we haven't yet tried it, but there is absolutely no way it isn't delicious). I may also buy a few gifts. We shall see.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Budapest Graffiti
I love graffiti (as Mindy found out in Rome... we spent 3 hours one day photographing graffiti under a bridge). There have some AWESOME graffiti here in Budapest, but unfortunately a lot of it is in the tunnel along the tram line, so I can't photograph it safely. I am considering just riding the tram back and forth and trying to capture some of the graffiti... too weird?
The Joke and Under a Cruel Star
By the way, I read Milan Kundera's The Joke on the bus ride from Prague to Budapest. It is an incredible book, and also a very sad one. The way it is written from various perspectives is quite impressive, and the way the stories twist together to eventually coalesce is even more so. I would say it is surprisingly tragic.
The other book we've read for our history class is Heda Margolius Kovály's Under a Cruel Star. I had read it before, but I read it again, and I love it even more than I did before. It is an autobiography of a Jewish woman who lived in Prague during the Nazi regime, survived the concentration camps (and escaped), and then joined the Communist Party. Her husband became a prominent party member and he was eventually executed in the purge "show" trials (fake trials set up to "purge traitors from within the party" - all false accusations and false pretenses of course). Kovály is such an incredible woman. She is one of the few people I really admire. Vera (professor) told us she saw Kovály on the metro in Prague once.
They are both on my list of all-time favorite books, and I have read a lot of books. If you haven't already, I would highly, highly recommend reading both.
I am definitely borrowing The Unbearable Lightness of Being (also Kundera) from Matthew when I get home.
The other book we've read for our history class is Heda Margolius Kovály's Under a Cruel Star. I had read it before, but I read it again, and I love it even more than I did before. It is an autobiography of a Jewish woman who lived in Prague during the Nazi regime, survived the concentration camps (and escaped), and then joined the Communist Party. Her husband became a prominent party member and he was eventually executed in the purge "show" trials (fake trials set up to "purge traitors from within the party" - all false accusations and false pretenses of course). Kovály is such an incredible woman. She is one of the few people I really admire. Vera (professor) told us she saw Kovály on the metro in Prague once.
They are both on my list of all-time favorite books, and I have read a lot of books. If you haven't already, I would highly, highly recommend reading both.
I am definitely borrowing The Unbearable Lightness of Being (also Kundera) from Matthew when I get home.
No Confidence Votes & The Holocaust in Hungary. A bit of a history/poli sci lesson.
I am thoroughly enjoying Budapest!
Today we went to visit the Parliament. I feel like we have such strange, and I almost hesitate to say "good" timing (because we happen to be here during fairly important, if not good times) here. We arrive in the Czech Republic during an interesting time, the previous government having been given a vote of no confidence in the week prior to our arrival... thus, the CZ has no real government right now (though the previous government is still effectively in power). Today, we happen to visit the Budapest Parliament on the day when the current Hungarian government is about to be given a vote of no confidence. In addition, there was a protest that began right around when we got there, because Hungary operates under a "constructive vote of no confidence" system which means that when the current government is voted out, a new leader must be recommended as a placement immediately so that the country is never without a leader. The protest was against the new leader being voted in because he has expressed part of his "reform plans," including cutting pensions and halting salaries for government workers for two years (according to the prof... I am not sure how that works exactly). Maybe he means raises... anyway, people are pissed.
Also, it was funny that the Hungarian Parliamentary building is such a beautiful building, but they actually only use the left half of it (it is HUGE). Apparently, they built it during the time when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it was built, intended for the bicameral body for the empire... but Hungary alone has only a unicameral legislative body.
One Hungarian woman walking by happened to hear part of Michael (professor) telling us about the reasons for the protest and some of the history/events (including corruption and cover-ups). At the end of his lecture, she commented, referring to the Hungarian government: "Too much lying every time... every time!" She was quite passionate.
It's strange being in a place where history is still happening. Yes, of course it's always happening, but big events. No confidence votes in governmental bodies. Failed reforms. The kinds of things we learn about in history. They're not finished here. The Berlin wall didn't come down until 1989. My professor, Vera Sokolova, took part in the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Even more incredible was our discussion with Pavlina, our art history professor. She pointed out the guards surrounding Parliament. Of course, we all thought this was quite normal... national guard or some such. But she told us that most likely, they were members of a faction- part of a party rather than working for Hungary itself. She was certainly afraid of them- something that would not have occurred to me had she not mentioned it.
We talked about the Hungarian Guards, a group that has expressed neo-Nazi tendencies. Anti-Semitism is growing in Hungary, as the party is gaining popularity. We learned more about this during the visit to the synagogue. The guide told us that much of Hungary still denies the Holocaust- it is not included in the history books. The persecution of the Jews is outright denied in many cases. Class trips to the concentration camps are not required (up to the teacher's discretion), unlike in Germany and Poland. Jews are still blamed for much of the economic issues that have arisen in recent times (all over the world, of course). It's terrible and frightening.
The synagogue we visited was once ironically known as "the most beautiful Catholic synagogue in the world" due to the Christian influence on the architecture and structure of the synagogue... this was out of respect for the Christians in the region. However, some refused to attend for this reason and thus began their own faction. How strange the splitting of religion into smaller and more specific factions can be. Especially considering a reason like this...
Anyway, we learned about the Holocaust's effect on Hungary. We saw the Jewish ghetto during WWII. We saw a tree sculpture created as a memorial to the Jews who died. Each leaf has a name of a Jew who died in the concentration camps engraved on its surface. It was incredible and so tragic. We saw the cemetery where 2,200 Jews were buried during 1944 & 1945... Jews who died in the ghetto because of the terrible living conditions. The guide told us that usually, living and dead are separated distinctly, so a cemetery would never be built next to a synagogue, but they had no choice because the ghetto was centered around the synagogue (easier than transporting them away since most were already in the area) and they could not leave. Thus, only Jews who died in 1944 to 1945 were buried there. We saw a memorial in which little holes were placed under the names of Jews who died. The holes were for offerings- they were filled with stones. Again, separation of living and dead. A living offering does not belong in a grave (ex: flowers), but stones were perfect offerings because they were not alive and they were eternal.
We went to a basilica as well, but it didn't have nearly the same impression as the synagogue. Instead, Colin and I mostly talked about how wasteful and hypocritical the Catholic Church was. The view from the cupola (quite a climb) was impressive, though, as it always is.
I suppose I should post some pictures sometime, but I don't have today's because my camera ran out of batteries, so I used Colin's to take pictures. I will try to get them from him.
On a lighter note, we went to one of the bathhouses today. It was relaxing, but I have to admit that it was also boring. I suppose I just wasn't meant to sit around and soak for hours on end.
I really enjoy Hungary!
The one place I really want to see this trip is Auschwitz. I think a group of us will organize to do one weekend in Krakow & Auschwitz. I think it will mean a lot to me, and it might be the first time I cry in public. I have gotten close many times, usually when we study the Holocaust and see documentaries or go to certain sites. I have learned a LOT about the Holocaust before, but it is so much more immediate here. We are in places where these things actually happened. Not just the Holocaust, but other historical events as well. The protests in Wenceslas Square, where we pass every day on our way to school. Old Town Square, where the Easter celebrations were. It seems strange that these same places of such massive historical importance can just continue in their daily lives as huge tourist spots, where prices are jacked up and souvenirs are abundant. It almost seems wrong.
I told some of my dinner companions today that my reason for wanting to visit Krakow is this book I read when I was very young, entitled Trumpeter of Krakow (I believe). The book had an effect on me and I really wanted to visit the tower and see the trumpeter, so I've always wanted to go to Krakow. I thought it was a silly reason but Pavlina thought it was a very good reason. I suppose it's as good as any.
Last night I went to a club. It was pretty cool, though we were all exhausted (many of us running on two hours of sleep or less the previous night). Had fun though. One incident did break out after I left, however. One of my group members, Tim, heard someone make a blatantly derogatory comment about Jews in his hearing. Tim challenged the guy and a fight almost broke out, but my classmates brought Tim home. Unfortunately, it seems that this anti-Semitism (as I discussed earlier) still has a presence in Hungary... in the form of two political parties.
Long entry. It is a bit disjointed but I am too tired to organize it further!
Added later: Also, we visited a market that looked like it has DELICIOUS food. We are going soon for sure! Also, we saw the Central European University here. It sounds pretty cool, but I'm not looking into grad school...
Today we went to visit the Parliament. I feel like we have such strange, and I almost hesitate to say "good" timing (because we happen to be here during fairly important, if not good times) here. We arrive in the Czech Republic during an interesting time, the previous government having been given a vote of no confidence in the week prior to our arrival... thus, the CZ has no real government right now (though the previous government is still effectively in power). Today, we happen to visit the Budapest Parliament on the day when the current Hungarian government is about to be given a vote of no confidence. In addition, there was a protest that began right around when we got there, because Hungary operates under a "constructive vote of no confidence" system which means that when the current government is voted out, a new leader must be recommended as a placement immediately so that the country is never without a leader. The protest was against the new leader being voted in because he has expressed part of his "reform plans," including cutting pensions and halting salaries for government workers for two years (according to the prof... I am not sure how that works exactly). Maybe he means raises... anyway, people are pissed.
Also, it was funny that the Hungarian Parliamentary building is such a beautiful building, but they actually only use the left half of it (it is HUGE). Apparently, they built it during the time when Hungary was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so it was built, intended for the bicameral body for the empire... but Hungary alone has only a unicameral legislative body.
One Hungarian woman walking by happened to hear part of Michael (professor) telling us about the reasons for the protest and some of the history/events (including corruption and cover-ups). At the end of his lecture, she commented, referring to the Hungarian government: "Too much lying every time... every time!" She was quite passionate.
It's strange being in a place where history is still happening. Yes, of course it's always happening, but big events. No confidence votes in governmental bodies. Failed reforms. The kinds of things we learn about in history. They're not finished here. The Berlin wall didn't come down until 1989. My professor, Vera Sokolova, took part in the Velvet Revolution in Prague.
Even more incredible was our discussion with Pavlina, our art history professor. She pointed out the guards surrounding Parliament. Of course, we all thought this was quite normal... national guard or some such. But she told us that most likely, they were members of a faction- part of a party rather than working for Hungary itself. She was certainly afraid of them- something that would not have occurred to me had she not mentioned it.
We talked about the Hungarian Guards, a group that has expressed neo-Nazi tendencies. Anti-Semitism is growing in Hungary, as the party is gaining popularity. We learned more about this during the visit to the synagogue. The guide told us that much of Hungary still denies the Holocaust- it is not included in the history books. The persecution of the Jews is outright denied in many cases. Class trips to the concentration camps are not required (up to the teacher's discretion), unlike in Germany and Poland. Jews are still blamed for much of the economic issues that have arisen in recent times (all over the world, of course). It's terrible and frightening.
The synagogue we visited was once ironically known as "the most beautiful Catholic synagogue in the world" due to the Christian influence on the architecture and structure of the synagogue... this was out of respect for the Christians in the region. However, some refused to attend for this reason and thus began their own faction. How strange the splitting of religion into smaller and more specific factions can be. Especially considering a reason like this...
Anyway, we learned about the Holocaust's effect on Hungary. We saw the Jewish ghetto during WWII. We saw a tree sculpture created as a memorial to the Jews who died. Each leaf has a name of a Jew who died in the concentration camps engraved on its surface. It was incredible and so tragic. We saw the cemetery where 2,200 Jews were buried during 1944 & 1945... Jews who died in the ghetto because of the terrible living conditions. The guide told us that usually, living and dead are separated distinctly, so a cemetery would never be built next to a synagogue, but they had no choice because the ghetto was centered around the synagogue (easier than transporting them away since most were already in the area) and they could not leave. Thus, only Jews who died in 1944 to 1945 were buried there. We saw a memorial in which little holes were placed under the names of Jews who died. The holes were for offerings- they were filled with stones. Again, separation of living and dead. A living offering does not belong in a grave (ex: flowers), but stones were perfect offerings because they were not alive and they were eternal.
We went to a basilica as well, but it didn't have nearly the same impression as the synagogue. Instead, Colin and I mostly talked about how wasteful and hypocritical the Catholic Church was. The view from the cupola (quite a climb) was impressive, though, as it always is.
I suppose I should post some pictures sometime, but I don't have today's because my camera ran out of batteries, so I used Colin's to take pictures. I will try to get them from him.
On a lighter note, we went to one of the bathhouses today. It was relaxing, but I have to admit that it was also boring. I suppose I just wasn't meant to sit around and soak for hours on end.
I really enjoy Hungary!
The one place I really want to see this trip is Auschwitz. I think a group of us will organize to do one weekend in Krakow & Auschwitz. I think it will mean a lot to me, and it might be the first time I cry in public. I have gotten close many times, usually when we study the Holocaust and see documentaries or go to certain sites. I have learned a LOT about the Holocaust before, but it is so much more immediate here. We are in places where these things actually happened. Not just the Holocaust, but other historical events as well. The protests in Wenceslas Square, where we pass every day on our way to school. Old Town Square, where the Easter celebrations were. It seems strange that these same places of such massive historical importance can just continue in their daily lives as huge tourist spots, where prices are jacked up and souvenirs are abundant. It almost seems wrong.
I told some of my dinner companions today that my reason for wanting to visit Krakow is this book I read when I was very young, entitled Trumpeter of Krakow (I believe). The book had an effect on me and I really wanted to visit the tower and see the trumpeter, so I've always wanted to go to Krakow. I thought it was a silly reason but Pavlina thought it was a very good reason. I suppose it's as good as any.
Last night I went to a club. It was pretty cool, though we were all exhausted (many of us running on two hours of sleep or less the previous night). Had fun though. One incident did break out after I left, however. One of my group members, Tim, heard someone make a blatantly derogatory comment about Jews in his hearing. Tim challenged the guy and a fight almost broke out, but my classmates brought Tim home. Unfortunately, it seems that this anti-Semitism (as I discussed earlier) still has a presence in Hungary... in the form of two political parties.
Long entry. It is a bit disjointed but I am too tired to organize it further!
Added later: Also, we visited a market that looked like it has DELICIOUS food. We are going soon for sure! Also, we saw the Central European University here. It sounds pretty cool, but I'm not looking into grad school...
Monday, April 13, 2009
Budapest, Hungary!
I guess the title of this blog is a lie at the moment since I'm in Budapest!
I am writing so I don't pass out while we wait for people to get ready to go out tonight. I just might go... but I have to be awake to make that choice! 2 hours of sleep + leaving the house at 5:45am + 7 hour bus ride = very sleepy! But I like Budapest so far!
I definitely did not know that the name Budapest is derived from Buda and Pest, which are the names of the two parts of the city (across the river from one another). They were combined to form Budapest. I thought it was funny. =)
I ate the biggest meal ever! Crazy restaurant we went to today. Gigantic dishes... but I still managed to find room for dessert, of course. =)
Things here are even more inexpensive than they were in Prague... it's pretty ridiculous. Lunch for under $3 is pretty sweet.
This week should be fun. Tomorrow we go to the bathhouse. Should be an interesting experience I think.
Saw the castle today. Got several beautiful views of the city. I like it so far!
I am writing so I don't pass out while we wait for people to get ready to go out tonight. I just might go... but I have to be awake to make that choice! 2 hours of sleep + leaving the house at 5:45am + 7 hour bus ride = very sleepy! But I like Budapest so far!
I definitely did not know that the name Budapest is derived from Buda and Pest, which are the names of the two parts of the city (across the river from one another). They were combined to form Budapest. I thought it was funny. =)
I ate the biggest meal ever! Crazy restaurant we went to today. Gigantic dishes... but I still managed to find room for dessert, of course. =)
Things here are even more inexpensive than they were in Prague... it's pretty ridiculous. Lunch for under $3 is pretty sweet.
This week should be fun. Tomorrow we go to the bathhouse. Should be an interesting experience I think.
Saw the castle today. Got several beautiful views of the city. I like it so far!
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Easter Sunday in Prague
It's funny trying to make soup when you can't read the directions because they're in Czech! It ended up alright though. =)
Today was beautiful. It's sunny here and it's Easter Sunday, which is a fairly big celebration, so we walked around Old Town Square. Of course, I forgot my camera but I assure you it was beautiful. I like how they decorate the trees! Also, we actually heard a Czech band giving a free concert in the Square, which is awesome because we've pretty much only heard American music since we've arrived. I didn't understand a word but I still loved it.
I bought a sheep cookie. It's awesome.
And yes I know a lot of posts are about food... but it's an important part of my life! =) Plus I think that's one thing I really like about exploring new cultures: the food.
Tomorrow we leave for Budapest. All we know is that we're going to a bathhouse at some point. Should be fun I suppose.
Also, we got internet set up in our apartment! Right now we only have one cord to share, but it's still very nice. No more paying 20 crowns per half hour! It was only the equivalent of $40 for all three of us for two months. Pretty cool.
Today was beautiful. It's sunny here and it's Easter Sunday, which is a fairly big celebration, so we walked around Old Town Square. Of course, I forgot my camera but I assure you it was beautiful. I like how they decorate the trees! Also, we actually heard a Czech band giving a free concert in the Square, which is awesome because we've pretty much only heard American music since we've arrived. I didn't understand a word but I still loved it.
I bought a sheep cookie. It's awesome.
And yes I know a lot of posts are about food... but it's an important part of my life! =) Plus I think that's one thing I really like about exploring new cultures: the food.
Tomorrow we leave for Budapest. All we know is that we're going to a bathhouse at some point. Should be fun I suppose.
Also, we got internet set up in our apartment! Right now we only have one cord to share, but it's still very nice. No more paying 20 crowns per half hour! It was only the equivalent of $40 for all three of us for two months. Pretty cool.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Meat and Potatoes
It amuses me how obsessive they are about meat here. I think I like meat more now because they cook it so well! So, meat & potatoes... rediscovered love.
I draw the line at the steak, bacon, and salami chips though. Especially because they look like the meat items they are named after... which means that in chip form, they basically look like dog treats.
Yummy...
I love the soup here! And the pastries! Mmmm....
I draw the line at the steak, bacon, and salami chips though. Especially because they look like the meat items they are named after... which means that in chip form, they basically look like dog treats.
Yummy...
I love the soup here! And the pastries! Mmmm....
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Džus!
I think it's funny that the word for "juice" in Czech is "džus". It's actually pronounced exactly the same way. Incredible how different the spelling is, though.
Ty Huynh and I are at the same cafe again, Cafe Illusion. We like it best despite its semi-unreliable internet. However, the funniest thing is that this guy is hitting on the waitress. They are sitting down together and teaching each other different languages (he's teaching her English & she's teaching him Czech). It has been amusing to see how this progressed from him sitting at the bar asking her how to basically hit on girls in Czech and her giving him skeptical replies... to this.
Ty Huynh and I are at the same cafe again, Cafe Illusion. We like it best despite its semi-unreliable internet. However, the funniest thing is that this guy is hitting on the waitress. They are sitting down together and teaching each other different languages (he's teaching her English & she's teaching him Czech). It has been amusing to see how this progressed from him sitting at the bar asking her how to basically hit on girls in Czech and her giving him skeptical replies... to this.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Pirate Prague
I like how one of the main greetings here is "Ahoj" (pronounced like "ahoy" in English)! It makes everyone seem like a pirate! It's fun. =)
I'm at Cafe Illusion again and this time I ordered the ice chocolate. It is delicious.
I really have nothing of substance to say right now except that Prague makes me happy!
I'm at Cafe Illusion again and this time I ordered the ice chocolate. It is delicious.
I really have nothing of substance to say right now except that Prague makes me happy!
Monday, April 6, 2009
Obama, Hannah, Easter Eggs, and Pastries!
It is week two and I'm feeling much better about Prague. =)
Hannah visited this weekend! We did all sorts of touristy things and travelled more around Prague. It was fun!
I got six of the hand-painted eggs they sell here for the Easter celebration. Some of them have incredible cutouts... it's a real eggshell with the egg contents drained. They are pretty. =) I should take pictures of them.
Saw Obama speak on Sunday! Waking up at 4:50am was not fun... but it was worth it (though we probably could have woken up a bit later). He is quite an eloquent speaker. It was funny hearing all these references to events we are learning about in my classes right now in his speech. Prague Spring, the legacy of the Cold War, the Velvet Revolution, and the idea of Czechoslovakia (as it was still one country at the time) having its fate decided for it without the voice of the Czech/Slovak people heard. It definitely added credibility and piqued my interest in his speech even more than it might have. It was also strange seeing snipers placed in several of the windows of buildings surrounding Prague castle and all of the other security guards.
I have already done so much reading ahead of time that it is ridiculous. I finish my readings and I feel like I should be doing more. I suppose such is the result of a hyper-intensive quarter where avoiding readings for a day or two is simply not an option. Now I feel like I need to be doing a lot more than I am doing... I feel like I must have more work to do because I have forgotten what it's like to only be taking 15 credits (3 classes) in one quarter.
Perhaps that is a contributing factor to my decision to pay for and attend Czech language classes. I realize that it will be impossible to learn the language- not even to the point where I will be able to speak conversational Czech. Still, I want to be able to pronounce things here. I want to be able to say just a few words, to make some effort. It is part of the experience I want to have here. How can you ever hope to understand a culture without even making an attempt at understanding the language? They are so integrally tied. So... I am learning a little bit of Czech. It is not really about usefulness to me... it is about really committing- making a real attempt to understand Prague. I am learning its social history and present, its political history and present. I may as well make a more complete effort.
I feel much more comfortable with the city now, in part thanks to my wanderings around the city with Hannah! I may have no idea where I am, but point the way to a 4 or 22 tram or any metro stop and I can find my way home! The transportation system here is excellent, as I mentioned before.
I love the content of Vera's class (history). I also enjoy Mike's class (political science), but I think I am more interested in discussions of history, generally, than discussions of political science. So far, the art history/architecture class is reminiscent of Rome since we are simply discussing basics of architecture styles, etc. It is nice to be walking around the city though. Anyhow, I am devouring the readings because they are incredible.
I suppose it is somewhat ironic that it is only in my senior year of college that I discover how much I enjoy some classes. I love learning about English and history. I wonder if I will miss that when I graduate... what a strange concept. I have never thought I would miss school, being resentful of the majority of my schooling. I finally feel like I'm appreciating some of it. I absolutely loved my English classes last quarter. English and history are my true passions, though I am much better at English than history since I have trouble remembering dates and names and other facts. I like to look at forces which shape events and see how different groups interact with one another. History is about studying people- a large part of it is looking at psychology of people and sociology - their interactions.
As a class, we went to the Institute for Totalitarian Regime today, which is essentially a way for the government to educate people about Totalitarian Regime. It also holds the archives for the documents kept in the Czech Republic under the Nazi and Communist regimes. They have chosen to open it up to the public (for the most part), despite much debate. It may close in September with the new elections, depending on the outcome of the elections. I like that they opened it to the public. It is a way to show that they are no longer covering up events in the past the way both of the regimes did both during and after events occurred.
Today, after class, Ty-Huynh and I (who live in the same apartment complex but not the same apartment unit) got stuck trying to exit our apartment building. The door is pretty worn out (understatement), but at least it usually opens after several tries. This time, it decided to be really stuck. We actually asked someone on the street outside to help open it (it opens a little bit but not all the way) and that was amusing. Perhaps it helped though, because even though he gave up and left, it was soon after that I thought it would be helpful to try slipping through the doorway. Of course, then it decided to open... Anyway. I've never been stuck inside a building for 30 minutes before.
Anyway, after we finally escaped, we went in search of an internet cafe (I love the people at the laundromat we usually go to for internet, but we were hungry and the laundromat closes at 8pm). After many failed attempts (too loud, no internet, too smoky, closes too early, or several of the above), we found this one! It has couches, quiet (not obnoxious) music, and it is clean and pretty. I like the internet cafes here. I talked to Zoe online and she told me that she misses internet cafes. We have quite a few in Seattle but she tells me there is a dearth of internet cafes in California (somewhere between San Diego and LA), where she lives now. If I do end up moving elsewhere in a year or two, I wonder what I will miss about Seattle or the Northwest in general. Much more than I can imagine, I am sure.
So I am at the cafe and Ty-Huynh and I just received the desserts we ordered. Pastries in general are delicious here. =) I may not be the biggest fan of meat, bread, and potatoes, but pastries I can get on board with!
I think now that I will miss Prague when I leave. I know that is in nine weeks, but I can tell I will already.
I am happy today. =)
Hannah visited this weekend! We did all sorts of touristy things and travelled more around Prague. It was fun!
I got six of the hand-painted eggs they sell here for the Easter celebration. Some of them have incredible cutouts... it's a real eggshell with the egg contents drained. They are pretty. =) I should take pictures of them.
Saw Obama speak on Sunday! Waking up at 4:50am was not fun... but it was worth it (though we probably could have woken up a bit later). He is quite an eloquent speaker. It was funny hearing all these references to events we are learning about in my classes right now in his speech. Prague Spring, the legacy of the Cold War, the Velvet Revolution, and the idea of Czechoslovakia (as it was still one country at the time) having its fate decided for it without the voice of the Czech/Slovak people heard. It definitely added credibility and piqued my interest in his speech even more than it might have. It was also strange seeing snipers placed in several of the windows of buildings surrounding Prague castle and all of the other security guards.
I have already done so much reading ahead of time that it is ridiculous. I finish my readings and I feel like I should be doing more. I suppose such is the result of a hyper-intensive quarter where avoiding readings for a day or two is simply not an option. Now I feel like I need to be doing a lot more than I am doing... I feel like I must have more work to do because I have forgotten what it's like to only be taking 15 credits (3 classes) in one quarter.
Perhaps that is a contributing factor to my decision to pay for and attend Czech language classes. I realize that it will be impossible to learn the language- not even to the point where I will be able to speak conversational Czech. Still, I want to be able to pronounce things here. I want to be able to say just a few words, to make some effort. It is part of the experience I want to have here. How can you ever hope to understand a culture without even making an attempt at understanding the language? They are so integrally tied. So... I am learning a little bit of Czech. It is not really about usefulness to me... it is about really committing- making a real attempt to understand Prague. I am learning its social history and present, its political history and present. I may as well make a more complete effort.
I feel much more comfortable with the city now, in part thanks to my wanderings around the city with Hannah! I may have no idea where I am, but point the way to a 4 or 22 tram or any metro stop and I can find my way home! The transportation system here is excellent, as I mentioned before.
I love the content of Vera's class (history). I also enjoy Mike's class (political science), but I think I am more interested in discussions of history, generally, than discussions of political science. So far, the art history/architecture class is reminiscent of Rome since we are simply discussing basics of architecture styles, etc. It is nice to be walking around the city though. Anyhow, I am devouring the readings because they are incredible.
I suppose it is somewhat ironic that it is only in my senior year of college that I discover how much I enjoy some classes. I love learning about English and history. I wonder if I will miss that when I graduate... what a strange concept. I have never thought I would miss school, being resentful of the majority of my schooling. I finally feel like I'm appreciating some of it. I absolutely loved my English classes last quarter. English and history are my true passions, though I am much better at English than history since I have trouble remembering dates and names and other facts. I like to look at forces which shape events and see how different groups interact with one another. History is about studying people- a large part of it is looking at psychology of people and sociology - their interactions.
As a class, we went to the Institute for Totalitarian Regime today, which is essentially a way for the government to educate people about Totalitarian Regime. It also holds the archives for the documents kept in the Czech Republic under the Nazi and Communist regimes. They have chosen to open it up to the public (for the most part), despite much debate. It may close in September with the new elections, depending on the outcome of the elections. I like that they opened it to the public. It is a way to show that they are no longer covering up events in the past the way both of the regimes did both during and after events occurred.
Today, after class, Ty-Huynh and I (who live in the same apartment complex but not the same apartment unit) got stuck trying to exit our apartment building. The door is pretty worn out (understatement), but at least it usually opens after several tries. This time, it decided to be really stuck. We actually asked someone on the street outside to help open it (it opens a little bit but not all the way) and that was amusing. Perhaps it helped though, because even though he gave up and left, it was soon after that I thought it would be helpful to try slipping through the doorway. Of course, then it decided to open... Anyway. I've never been stuck inside a building for 30 minutes before.
Anyway, after we finally escaped, we went in search of an internet cafe (I love the people at the laundromat we usually go to for internet, but we were hungry and the laundromat closes at 8pm). After many failed attempts (too loud, no internet, too smoky, closes too early, or several of the above), we found this one! It has couches, quiet (not obnoxious) music, and it is clean and pretty. I like the internet cafes here. I talked to Zoe online and she told me that she misses internet cafes. We have quite a few in Seattle but she tells me there is a dearth of internet cafes in California (somewhere between San Diego and LA), where she lives now. If I do end up moving elsewhere in a year or two, I wonder what I will miss about Seattle or the Northwest in general. Much more than I can imagine, I am sure.
So I am at the cafe and Ty-Huynh and I just received the desserts we ordered. Pastries in general are delicious here. =) I may not be the biggest fan of meat, bread, and potatoes, but pastries I can get on board with!
I think now that I will miss Prague when I leave. I know that is in nine weeks, but I can tell I will already.
I am happy today. =)
Friday, April 3, 2009
Excerpt: Bits of Prague
I haven't been great about updating, but I attribute this partly to my difficulty in logging into this blog. I finally figured out how to connect my gmail to this blog so I can now post it without logging out of my e-mail. Yay! Expect more updates, perhaps.
Here is something I did write about Prague a few days ago:
I do really like Prague, although I think I'm affected by Rome syndrome, which is to say that nothing is exceptionally impressive anymore. It is pretty and interesting, though, from what I've seen so far (not much). I really want to see the dancing building. There are a lot of things I like about here. I like all of the natives I have met and conversed with so far, and I like that they have four different types of recycling bins on the street for every garbage can. It makes me happy. I like that their public transportation system is easy to figure out and I like that the city looks very unplanned – just layers of different architecture styles built across various centuries without regard for how the whole city fits. It’s fun. It’s eclectic. I like that you can purchase frozen frog legs at the local supermarket (though I don't plan on doing so), that the 24/7 stores are labeled "NONSTOP" and that groceries are incredibly cheap. I like that I don't understand the language - I am going to be taking courses soon though. I like that I am slowly learning the area (too slowly maybe but still).
I will post today's separately so I can backdate this!
Here is something I did write about Prague a few days ago:
I do really like Prague, although I think I'm affected by Rome syndrome, which is to say that nothing is exceptionally impressive anymore. It is pretty and interesting, though, from what I've seen so far (not much). I really want to see the dancing building. There are a lot of things I like about here. I like all of the natives I have met and conversed with so far, and I like that they have four different types of recycling bins on the street for every garbage can. It makes me happy. I like that their public transportation system is easy to figure out and I like that the city looks very unplanned – just layers of different architecture styles built across various centuries without regard for how the whole city fits. It’s fun. It’s eclectic. I like that you can purchase frozen frog legs at the local supermarket (though I don't plan on doing so), that the 24/7 stores are labeled "NONSTOP" and that groceries are incredibly cheap. I like that I don't understand the language - I am going to be taking courses soon though. I like that I am slowly learning the area (too slowly maybe but still).
I will post today's separately so I can backdate this!
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